Hi there. For the new year, I thought I'd add some fun photoshop tutorials to this space. I know there are lots of artists out there who would like to make pattern repeats but don't know where to start. Here's a tutorial on how I do it in Photoshop!
Enjoy!
Double Mitered Borders Video How To...
The Tea Delights print from Splendor 1920 whispers to me... "please make me into a table cloth"... She's not sly about it either. She's loud. She wants to be put on a table. Napkins, tea towels, table clothes, runners, place mats... She's screaming at me.
As you know I've obliged with napkins... and I also caved and made a table cloth. I was going to hem it, but I'm thinking I'd like a heavy table cloth, so it's going to get quilted. I'm thinking a flannel back... maybe no batting at all so it hangs nicely without being too thick. I don't want it to look like I threw a quilt on the table. So, the jury is out on that.
However, the point of this post is to show you how to add double (or any multiple) mitered borders to a quilt. Like I did with this table cloth. It's really easy as you'll see in this video. The hardest part is figuring out how long to make your borders.
Once you've got them cut, sew them together and just treat them as one border.
The formula is in the video, but I thought I'd put it in writing here as well.
Decide how wide your borders will be first. Then figure out how wide they will be once sewn together.
To figure out how long each piece should be use this formula:
(finished width of border) x 2 + (unfinished WIDTH of quilt) + 1" = length of border for quilt width side
Do the same for the unfinished LENGTH of the quilt...
(finished width of border) x 2 + (unfinished LENGTH of quilt) = 1" = length of border for quilt length side
And, here's the video explaining the whole process... Happy sewing!
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 14. Fabric File Portfolio
Whew! Wiping the sweat from my brow. The last project is finally done. And 14 projects in 21 days? I'll call that a success.
I hope you have enjoyed this series. I look forward to doing another (um... shorter) series when Splendor 1920 arrives in stores. Here is the 14th project. It was inspired by the loads of paper I picked up today for school registration. Happy Sewing!
You'll need:
1/2 yard of double sided fusible heavy Pellon
1/2 yard each of two contrasting fabrics
1/4 yard each of two constrasting fabrics for binding
Cutting:
1 each ON FOLD - 13" x 9 1/2" - 2 contrasting fabrics and pellon (opens to 13" x 19")
2 - 3" x WOF strips for binding on top and ties
1 - 3" x WOF strip for binding on sides
Step by Step:
1. Press each piece of fabric to opposite sides of the pellon. (wrong side faces the pellon)
2. Make binding and ties (see day 11 curtains for how to make binding except you won't need to attach pieces together for extra length as on the curtains).
3. For the ties, take one WOF piece of binding and cut it in half. Finish the ends by opening the folded binding on one short end. Fold the end in half wrong sides together and sew a 1/4" seam allowance along the short end. Turn the binding back so it is folded properly. Edge stitch the open side of the binding closed. Set aside.
4. With the "portfolio" open, sew binding onto each top edge (again, see curtains day 11 for binding instructions).
5. Sew the ties on. With the "portfolio" open, mark the middle of the top edge of each side of the folder. Place the raw short edge of the tie at the top of the folder at the mid point, just below where you've sewn on the binding. Along the short raw edge of the tie, sew the tie on using a scant 1/4" seam allowance. Flip the tie up, and sew it on (enclosing the raw edge) 1/4" above the fold. Repeat for the other tie.
6. Sew the side binding on. Cut two pieces of binding that are each 10 1/2". Fold the "portfolio" in half. Open the binding, and place it on top of the front of the folder along one raw edge. Leave an extra 1/2" at the top and an extra 1/2" at the bottom. Sew the binding through the two layers of the folder following the pressed fold as you did for the other pieces of binding. Flip the binding to the back, fold in the two raw edges at the top and the bottom, and press in place. Edge stitch the binding from the front as you did before.
14 Days of LillyBelle.. Day 11. It's Curtains for Lara!
My sister just moved into a new home, and she desperately needed curtains. The sliding glass door she has is over 9 feet long, and the former occupants, had an 8 foot rod on the window and some seriously frightening curtain panels that didn't fit. On top of that, her toddler and 1 year old pulled the whole deal down the other day. Lucky for Lara, I'm in the midst of my self-imposed challenge and needed a good project. So off I went on my curtain making adventure.
Now, some of you know, that I have made a huge amount of curtains in the past. So, frankly, I was a little cocky going into this. This is actually the second set of curtains created yesterday. I had originally planned using white fabric where the yellow is. I had about 8 yards of white corduroy left, and I wanted to use it up. I cut everything very carefully, and set the leftover fabric aside. HOWEVER, when I went to put the corduroy panel on the second curtain, I grabbed the leftover fabric unknowingly. And it was 1/4 of the width. It was the end of the day, and I was exhausted, not to mention hungry... I didn't notice. Until we hung it on the window and which point I dissolved into a angry/weepy mess. Low blood sugar + exhaustion = really unhappy Bari.
I had wanted to photograph and get this post up last night. Instead, I spent the remainder of the night (until 12:30PM) remaking the curtains entirely... I had cut into the properly cut piece for another part of the curtain, and didn't have any left to be able to just fix the error.
All of that said, in the end, I like the second set better.
Lara didn't want lining because she wanted the sun to shine through a bit, so I decided to bind the curtains instead of hem the sides and bottom:
By doing this, I think it gave the back a bit of a more fininshed look. Plus, it really frames the whole thing nicely.
A basic how to on curtains:
Cutting:
WIDTH:
Lara's window was 112" the entire way across. I made two panels and each is 110" wide finished (nearly the entire width) in order to make them ruffly. i.e. = equation for each panel is 1/2 the window x 2.
Note: I actually used 3 pieces of fabric for each panel width... when you decide on width, take seam allowances between panels into account.
HEIGHT:
Here's what you need to take into account:
1. Rod pocket. I made a 3" rod pocket plus I finished the top of the rod pocket with a top top stitch that took up 1/4" inch. There for I added 6 1/2" for the rod pocket.
2. Hem. If I was going to do a hem, I'd add 1/2" to the bottom.
3. Height of brackets. Your brackets will be hung above the window. Buy your brackets first and measure them. Then decide where they will hang. Add the amount to the total height of your panels.
equation for panel length:
Window Height
+ (rod width x 2) + 1/2" for top stitching at top of curtain
+ 1/2" for hem (If you are doing one. I didn't because I used binding.)
+ bracket height
If you are going to bind instead of hem here's the equation for amount of binding needed:
1 side of curtain x 2 + width of the bottom/width of fabric = number of 3" strips needed
Step by step:
Binding (note: you'll be binding the sides and the bottom, not the top)
1. Attach the 3" strips together by mitering.
To miter...
a. Place strips in a backward "L" shape, right sides together:
b. Sew a 45 degree angle seam from corner to corner.
c. Trim off excess fabric in seam... here's what the miter looks like:
2. Press the binding in half lengthwise and press.
3. Open up and fold each edge into the middle and press.
4. Fold in half lengthwise again and press.
5. Open up the binding, align with the top right hand corner of your curtain, right sides together, raw edges matching. Sew along the first fold line.
6. When you get 1/2" from the corner, pivot and sew a 45 degree angle to the corner. Cut thread and take out from under foot.
7. To miter the corner. urn the fabric to the right...
... then back over itself to the left. Continue sewing along the raw edge.
8. Miter the other corner in the same manner, and sew to the top left of the curtain.
9. Once the binding is on the front, flip it over to the back, fold the raw edge in toward the wrong side of the binding and press in place on the back of the curtain. You can even use a little glue stick to hold it in place.
10. Top stitch the binding on from the front side (see the photo of the fininshed binding near the top of this post.
ROD POCKET:
1. Measure 3 1/4" from the top of the curtain and mark.
2. Fold the fabric down toward the wrong side 1/4" (so there was no raw edge), and then another 3" (where you just marked) for the rod pocket. Pin in place.
3. Edge stitch along the fold on the wrong side of the fabric to close the rod pocket.
4. At the very top of the fold, top stitched 1/4" away from the edge for a finished look on the top.
Voila! You are finished.
14 days of LillyBelle. Day 10... Drawstring Gift Bag
Off to a cocktail party in a few hours... bringing the coasters I made earlier this week along with some wine. Today I made a LillyBelle gift bag to bring it in.
I think I'll make a bunch of these to have on had as the holidays approach. They are super easy for a lot of impact. Plus, of course, you can make them in any size... great for shoe bags, lingerie bags etc etc... just re-size.
Here's how I made this one...
Supplies Needed:
Fat Quarter of fabric
1/4 yard contrast fabric
Safety pin
Serger (optional)
Cutting:
Main fabric: 16 1/4" x 14"
Contrast fabric: 4" x WOF
Step by Step:
1. Serge or zig zag stitch all four raw edges of the main fabric.
2. Fold the two 16 1/4" sides and 1 - 14" side in 1/4" toward the wrong side of the fabric. These will be the side seam and the bottom of the bag. Do not fold in the top edge.
3. Edge stitch along the inside edge of the 1/4" folded fabric to hem.
4. Mark 2 1/4" down from the top of the fabric.
5. Fold the top edge toward the wrong side of the fabric along the 2 1/4" mark.
6. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew along the top folded edge.
7. Edge stitch along the serged/zig zagged edge. You've just created the casing for your drawstring.
8. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise so the side seams meet, right sides together.
9. Sew the side seam and bottom edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.
10. Turn and press.
Make the drawstring:
1. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together and press.
2. Fold each short raw end in toward the long folded edge at a 45 degree angle creating a pointed end.
3. Sew the raw edge and angle closed leaving a 4" -5" opening to turn. Turn and press.
4. Edge stitch the seam edge, closing the opening to finish.
5. Place a safety pin on one end of the drawstring and draw through the casing.
4. Turn the
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 9. Zakka Embroidery Organizer Wall Pockets
Today's project is a nifty little wall organizer for your embroidery supplies...
Here's how you make it...
Download pocket pattern pieces: Download Zakkapockets
Supplies needed:
2 - 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" pieces of fabric
Scraps in varying contrasting fabrics sized larger than 8".
1 - 1/2 yard fusible fleece
1/4 yard for binding
Cutting:
For front and back cut 1 each 12 1/2" x 12 1/2"
Cut pockets as indicated on pattern sheet
1 - 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" fusible fleece
Step by step:
Edit: In hindsight... had this not been a project a day challenge, I may have thought to quilt the piece first, THEN put the pockets on... I would highly recommend that. So, instead of making and attaching the pockets, first fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the front panel, baste the backing on, and quilt as you wish. I think I'm going to take the pockets off of this one, do straight line quilting, then put the pockets back on. You can sew the pockets on through the 3 layers. Bind when it's all finished.
Pocket 1 (ruler/pen):
1. Fold your piece of fabric in half with the right sides together (the fold is 3 1/2" across).
2. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew the long sides together and leave the bottom open.
3. Trim the corners, turn and press.
4. Edge stitch along the top 3 1/2" fold.
5. Place the pocket with the raw edge toward the top onto the fabric panel. The left hand corner should be 2 1/4" from the left side of the fabric and 5 3/4" from the bottom of the fabric panel. See below for placement.
6. Stitch onto the panel using a scant 1/4" seam allowance.
7. Flip the pocket up, press and sew a 1/4" seam allowance at the bottom of the pocket, enclosing the raw edge. Then top/edge stitch the sides in place.
Pockets 2a/b:
1. Follow steps 1 through 4 above, except use the 5 1/2" width as the fold.
2. Place the smaller pocket in front of the larger pocket with the raw edges aligned.
3. Place the pockets with the raw edge toward the top onto the fabric panel. The smaller pocket should be facing the right side of the fabric panel (i.e. down). The right hand corner should be 1 1/4" from the right side of the fabric and 6 1/4" from the bottom of the fabric panel. See below for placement.
Pocket 3 (rounded hoop pocket):
1. Fold the pocket in half along the fold you cut on with the right sides together.
2. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew the two sides together. Leave a 2" to 3" opening in the bottom to turn (I usually baste through my openings and then open them up to turn... this way I have a stitch line to make it easier to turn the fabric in later).
3. Turn and press.
4. Edge stitch along the fold.
5. Center the pocket below pocket 1, about 1 1/4" from the bottom of the fabric, and edge stitch in place.
Pocket 4 (scissors):
1. Place the two pieces right side together and sew together using a 1/4" seam allowance and leaving an opening in the top.
2. Turn and press.
3. Center the pocket below pocket 2, about 1 1/4" from the bottom and edge stitch in place.
Tabs:
For top tabs, I created extra binding.
1. Cut off 2 - 4" pieces, folded the edges in 1/4" then fold in half. Edge stitch along the open edge.
2. Mark 2" from each side of the top center for tab placement. Align the raw edges of the tabs on the back side of your organizer, and as you sew your binding onto the front of your piece, sew the tabs in with it.
3. When you flip the binding over the top to the back and hand stitch, flip the tabs up and stitch them in place as well.
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 8. Doggie Bed.
This is Izzy. On her new bed. We had to bribe her with lots of cookies to sit still. Also, I photoshopped out her drool off the dog bed...
Several weeks ago I went to great lengths getting foam for dog beds at the local big box sewing store. Let's suffice to say, thanks to a coupon ta do, I made two stops back there for the same item only to have a coupon argument at the cutting table when I finally did get the foam. Sheesh.
But I digress... for weeks now, I've had two ugly pieces of foam sitting around, and I hadn't gotten around to sewing covers for them. Lucky me. I commited to sewing with LillyBelle every day for 14 days... so now I had an excuse. I HAD to make the dog beds. And at least I did get one done today. I did this one with the zipper in the side... It's hidden under fabric flaps, and this is my favorite way of doing zipper on pillows of any sort.
How to make your own doggie bed...
Supplies:
1 yard of 5" x 24 1/2" foam
1 1/2 yards of main fabric
3/4 yard of contrast fabric
24" upholstery zipper
2 yards fusible fleece (optional)
Cutting:
Main fabric, fusible fleece – 2 each- 37" x 25 1/2" pieces
Contrast fabric, fusible fleece – 2 each - 3 1/2" x 37" pieces, 1 each - 6" x 37" piece, 2 each - 6" x 25 1/2" pieces
Step by Step:
Install zipper in the side:
1. Place the two 3 1/2" x 37" pieces right sides together.
2. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, BASTE the two pieces together along a long raw edge.
3. Press the seam open and place your zipper on top of the wrong side of the seam, right side of zipper down, centered on top of the seam.
4. Pin the zipper in place alternating the direction from which you put the pin in (see above).
5. From the right side of the basted panel, and with your zipper foot on, top stitch along the side of the seam about 1/4" away from the zipper. The trick here is to feel with your fingers as you sew down next to the seam, and reach under the fabric pulling pins out of the way as you go.
Zipper tip: you'll want to pull the zipper pull open as you start so it's away from the presser foot, then when you get to it, put the presser foot in the up position and wiggle the pull up again past it.
6. Sew back up the other side of the seam, again keeping 1/4" away from the zipper.
7. Use a seam ripper to open the basted seam exposing your zipper.
Note: if you have cut your zipper to length, you'll want to do a tight zig zag stitch in place to work as a tab at the bottom of the zipper so that you can't open the zipper past it (see below).
Sew the contrast fabric sides to the main fabric panels:
Note: For all of the seams, start and stop at the 1/2" point. You might want to mark 1/2" from the ends on all of the pieces.
1. Place the zipper panel on top of one of the large panels (main fabric) along a long side, right sides together. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, and starting/stopping 1/2" inch from each end, sew the two pieces together.
2. Sew the other three contrast pieces of fabric on in the same manner.
4. Repeat for the other side of the dog bed.
5. Starting and stopping at the 1/2" points, and using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew the four corners together... NOTE: Before you sew the last corner, open the zipper so you can turn through it.
6. Serge or zig zag stitch all seams, turn and press.
7. Slip on the piece of foam (read: wrangle onto the piece of foam)
8. Force your dog to pose on her new bed for a photo.
9. Post to Facebook and tell all your friends you made a dog bed all by yourself.
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 7. Sweet Dreams Sleep Mask.
For some time now, I've taken to sleeping with a sleep mask, and I sleep much better when I do. It's a really pretty picture... me jumping into bed, putting the ritual lotion and sweat socks on, wearing my bite guard and then pulling a mask over my face. It's cute, I'm sure. Aherm. . . Well, at least now I'll be a little cuter, you'll have to agree. Last night the elastic on my old sleep mask busted, so I this became today's project. It makes a great gift too!
Download the pattern here:
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 6. String Block quilted coasters.
I have a party to go to later this week. So, I thought I'd make a hostess gift today. At this point, I have a ton of scraps, so I thought a string block would be perfect. Together, four coasters make one string block and I think they look fantastic on a coffee table layed out like this... Make a whole bunch and you can mix and match.
Here's how you make them...
You will need:
a fat quarter of muslin
a fat quarter of batting or fusible fleece (I used the fleece)
Scraps
A fat quarter for the back of the coasters
Coordinating Thread (I used four Aurifil colors from the Pat Bravo Quilter's Heart box set: 2132, 2420, 5006 and 2311)
Cut:
4 each backing, batting/fusible fleece and muslin at 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
Cut strips of varying sizes at least 7" long
Assemble:
1. Lay a strip, right side up on top of a muslin square on the diagonal.
2. Lay a second strip on top of the first piece raw edges matching and right sides together.
3. Sew a 1/4" seam along the raw edge.
4. Flip the top piece over and press in place.
5. Continue piecing in this manner until the entire square is covered.
6. Turn your finished square over on top of your cutting mat so you can see the muslin, and use your rotary cutter and ruler to trim to the size of the square.
7. Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of each of your finished squares.
8. Place the backing and front of the square right sides together and sew around three sides.
9. For the fourth side, baste the seam.
10. Trim the corners.
11. Press all seams open.
12. With a seam ripper, open a small portion of the basted edge. (note: I had you close it and open it so that you would have a nice line to turn the edge under.)
13. Turn the coaster through the opening.
14. Press the open edge in 1/4" toward the wrong side.
15. Edge stitch around the four sides of the coaster closing the open side.
16. Quilt as desired. I simply quilted straight lines 1/4" apart until I got to the center... That way, I didn't have to lift the needle or cut thread. i.e.: It was fast.
Happy sewing!
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 5. Fabric Collage Embellished Skirt
You probably already know this... I love fabric collage. I think it works on just about anything. I've done wall hangings, pillows, embellished sweaters, quilt edges, jeans and lots more. For this project, I embellished a jean skirt. If you were at quilt market you might have seen me wearing it. I actually did this in the hotel room the night before the show opened.
This is super easy to do. If you don't have experience with free motion quilting, this is also an easy way to get started practicing because it's just so forgiving. If your stitches appear too long or short, just go over them again. You are simply going to doodle. Watch me do it in the video below.
For this project you'll need about 20 or so raw edged fabric motifs. Mine are from LillyBelle in the both colorways. I used Aurifil 4651 which is a variegated thread for the quilting. And you'll need a sewng machine that has free motion quilting capability (feed dogs can go down and a quilting foot). You'll also need a piece of muslin to go underneath your motifs where they will hang off the edge. Quilting gloves are optional, but really help you grip the fabric to move it.
1. Lay the muslin on top of your jean skirt where you will be putting the motifs. It can hang off the bottom edge.
2. Lay out your motifs in a manner that is pleasing to you. Make sure that if it is going of the edge, they are on top of the muslin which you will use as a base.
3. Pin all motifs in place or use a washable glue stick to hold them down. You don't want them flapping about as you are quilting.
4. Free motion quilt/doodle them all into place.
5. Cut off the excess muslin up to the edges of the motifs.
6. Zig zag stitch the raw edges along the bottom with a tight stitch. You could go around the edge three times making each round a shorter stitch to mimic a satin stitch or you could also serge the edges.
7. Wash the skirt to give the pieces a frayed
look.
Here's a short video in which I show you how to free motion quilt for fabric collage. Happy stitching!
14 days of LillyBelle... Day Three. Skill Builder Fat Quarter Tote. (making darts)
lily bouquet fabric and vintage fence from LillyBelle... warm sunset palette.
If you haven't done much clothing sewing then you may not have ever sewn a dart before. Darts are really useful in clothing to add shape... around the hips and the bust are some of the most common places you'll see darts. In this project I added darts to a very simple tote to give it shape around the bottom edges. It gave it a bit more fullness where otherwise the bag would have just been flat. The other nice thing about this bag is that it took all of 1 fat quarter, half yard of interfacing (22" wide) and an eighth of a yard for handles. It finishes at approximately 10 x 10
Here's how you make it:
1. True up the edges of your fat quarter. (i.e.: The top should be the same measurement as the bottom, the sides should be equal and each corner should be 90 degrees.)
2. Fold the fat quarter in quarters... in half the long way and then again the short way. Press it so that you will clearly see the press lines when you unfold it.
3. Unfold and cut into four pieces along the pressed lines... 2 pieces will be the outside of the bag and 2 pieces will be the lining.
4. Cut interfacing to the size of each of the four pieces and press on the wrong side of the fabric.
5. Make darts in each of the bottom corners... for each bottom corner of each of the four pieces of fabric do the following:
• Fold the top corner down so that the side raw edge matches the bottom raw edge, right sides together.
• Mark 1/2" in from the corner and 3" up. See the photo below.
• Stitch from the 3" mark down to the 1/2" mark... do not back stitch at the top (3" mark) because it will cause puckers. Rather, leave a long thread tail and tie a knot to keep the thread from coming loose.
• Press each dart to one side.
6. Make the handles:
• Cut 1 - 4" strip x Width of the Fabric, and cut the strip in two pieces for the two handles.
• Cut 2 pieces of interfacing the same size of the handles and press onto the wrong side of the fabric.
• Fold each handle piece in half lengthwise, right sides together and sew along the raw edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.
• Turn each handle tube using a safety pin or tube turner.
• Press flat with the seam centered down the back of the handle.
• Fold each handle in half lengthwise and mark three inches from each end.
• Along the edge that is open, and starting and finishing at the 3" marks, edge stitch the folded handle together. (Each end will be open.)
7. Sew the bag panels together:
• Place the out side of the bag right sides together and match the darts on each side. Pin in place.
• Using a 1/4" seam allowance start at the top right corner, sew down to the bottom right corner, pivot, sew across the bottom and up the other side, leaving the top of the bag open.
• Repeat the first two steps for the lining pieces except leave a 4" opening on the bottom of the bag to turn through later.
8. Attach the handles (see illustration below):
• On the outside of the bag, mark the top center of each side (you can find it by folding in half with the seams together.
• Mark 2" to each side of center on each side of the bag.
• For each handle on opposite sides of the bag: With the seam side up place a raw edge of a handle end aligned to the outside of the 2" line. Without twisting the handle, place the other edge on the other 2" line. Use a scant 1/4" seam allowance to stitch each end of the handle in place.
9. Turn the outside of the lining so it is wrong side out. Place the outside of the bag into the lining so that the right sides are facing together.
10. At the top opening, pin the side seams together, then pin along the rest of the top.
11. Sew all the way around the top of the bag opening using a 1/4" seam allowance.
12. Turn the bag through the opening in the lining and press well.
13. Top/edge stitch around the entire top edge of the bag.
14. Press the opening in the lining toward the wrong side of the fabric, then edge stitch the opening closed.
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day two. Double sided napkins
A new photo showing the mitered corners a bit clearer...
I have to laugh at myself. This morning I decided I'd do an easy project. And oh, it WAS easy. Until I decided to video it. And edit it. And add music. And make what could have taken 2 hours take... all. day. long. Anyways, I hope you enjoy. And if you don't, please just say you do anyways. XO, b
Making projects look professional... pillow details and a zipper how-to.
Today was the start of pillow making for my quilt market booth. If there's anything I've come to really understand in the past few years, it's the details that really count in making projects look professional. For pillows in particular there are a couple details that I think make things really have polish.
On this pillow, you'll note several things. First, the corners are rounded. After I cut, I always take a bowl from the kitchen and draw rounded lines at the corners. This way, I don't have those dog-eared corners where there's no fluff.
Second, I always cut my fabric an inch shorter than the pillow size. If I have a 24" pillow, I cut at 23". When I pop the pillow form in the cover, it really fills it up nice and fluffy. Love that.
Another thing that I'm really loving these days in the way of detail is adding things like piping and ruffles... and fringe. And pom poms. Here, there's piping outlining the mid-section of this pillow. I think adding a detail like this gives added punch and definition. For the ruffle I used a solid from Art Gallery Pure Elements to frame the pillow very nicely. The Pure Elements colors are uber-rich. If you are interested in an easy way to do piping, I love using Nancy's Zieman's Wrap and Fuse piping which made by Clover. It makes piping super easy. It is cording covered with fusible web, so you simply cut your fabric, wrap it around and fuse it together, saving you a sewing step... and pins. I adore it. Also, it comes in several sizes.
I additionally think that a pillow should be fluffy. I always use fusible fleece as interfacing to give it some added oompf.
One last thing... it's easy to make a pillow back where you overlap two pieces, insert the pillow between and use ribbon or trim to tie it, but I think a zipper makes it have a professional polish you really can't get with the overlapping method. A couple years ago, I learned an extra easy way to do this... here's how...
I hope that helps, and if you want, on the next pillow I'll videotape as I go along... I have at least two more to go before market!
Details on the fabric here: The maing fabrics are LillyBelle, of course... the center is Lily Bouquet and the sides are Flower Pop. The piping is Art Gallery's lace elements, and like I said before, the ruffle is an Art Gallery Pure Elements.
A couple weeks ago our friend Pam (ours being yours and mine) came over to play. It was one of those mornings. She had tweeted she was unfocused or something of the sort, and I tweeted back, "come be unfocused with me" or something like that.
I had been contemplating starting a new quilt with my Paris Apartment fabric, but wasn't sure of my direction. But along came Pam and saved my day. With just a few hints and tips I was able to come up with a great new design.
Pam is not just a quilting genius, but she's also a computer whiz!
I've been working with Photoshop forever. Since the first version, I believe. But when Pam showed me how she was using it to design quilts, I wanted to bonk myself over the head! Why didn't I think of that? I've designed all of my quilts on photoshop, but not like this. On top of that, I knew how to do all of this, but never thought of it for quilt making. Seriously. It was Pam Kitty Genius! Create custom shapes and use them over and over for quilt blocks. I don't know what I was doing, but it wasn't easy, like this is.
Above is the quilt I designed. (It will, of course, be a pattern shortly... as soon as I finish sewing it up and it's quilted...
...which is (ahem) what I should be doing now. Instead, I'm writing this post cause it sounded like fun.
Wanna' know how you do it?
You simply use the pen tool to create your shape.
The shape is a "path" that you can make a custom shape from.
Choose edit: define custom shape.
Now you have a custom shape you can choose to use however you want!
When you chose the shape tool, this appears at the top of the screen. Just choose the blobby looking thing on the left, then you can pick your new custom shape from the drop down menu.
And voila!
This is one of my custom shapes!
Yeah-huh, I did! Weeks ago, right? Vvvvvell, here it is. Finally. Next time I'll just say "I'll be posting a tutorial on this ... soon ... ish."
Download pin20cushion20tutorial.pdf
In the interest of creating actual usable tutorials, please let me know how this works out for you. Thanks. ~b
What a week. I had wanted to post this on 
Tuesday, but life sure went and got in the way. The kids had half days all week which totally threw off the balance over here. Although it was kind of nice having them around... when they weren't fighting with each other.
I've got a bunch of goodies to share this weekend when I get a chance to get them up on my website. Those Bowl of Flowers pieces came back from the contractor. I'm very tempted to keep the black and white one for myself.
Anywho... here's the rest of my little apron tutorial. It was lots of fun to put together, and I can't wait until I get a chance to offer another project. Enjoy.
~bari
I taught myself to sew by using books. This was a very frustrating process. Books don't necessarily tell you what mistakes you can make. I made lots and lots and lots of mistakes. I ruined lots of fabric. Nice fabric. Most books don't tell you to try it first in muslin if you are unsure ... a much more cost effective way to make mistakes.
I'm not a giver-upper. I'm very, very stubborn. But I can tell you that I was very aggravated. There was so much I didn't know. But I learned. All from making my own (sometimes disasterous) mistakes.
With the tutorials that I am about to start offering here I'm assuming that you don't know much. So, if you do, (and likely a lot of you do... and probably much more than I do) please forgive the basic way I'm introducing things.
I'm calling this "Keeping It Real Sewing" because I'm going to tell you all the mistakes I made. Some of them are pretty funny... and pretty goofy. But this is part of my whole philosophy, really.
My very basic belief when I started Bari J. as a business, was that "If someone else can do it, so can I." Mistakes will and have been made... I can't even count how many. And I don't mean just sewing mistakes.
Here is Part I of my first tutorial... A very simple, flat front utility apron. The only part that can be counted as tricky is the ruffle. And I included it because I had been so scared of doing them... until I found out how easy they are.
Please offer feedback so that I can make these really easy to use. Have fun!
~Bari
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