Creating Sewing Patterns: My Process

The photo above is the *temporary cover* for my newest pattern, Springtime in Paris. It's temporary, because I'm still not positive about the photo. It's almost there. 

I need to get cracking with the writing part of this, but I thought I'd share a little of my process with you.

I was thinking about this as I was working on it. A lot of how I work has changed over the years. For one thing, I'm much more patient with myself. I know that there are a lot of variables that come into play that I don't think of when I come up with my "great idea". Oftentimes, it takes many tries to get it right. Sometimes, many many tries. The Izzy Pincushion Pattern for instance? That took me six tries before Izzy would stand up on her own. And at one point, I was so tired, that I sewed her tail to her head and her ear to her butt.

So, with that kind of experience behind me, I knew when I started this bag, that could be the case. When the challenges came up, I was prepared. In the past you might have found me curled up in the fetal position claiming I was never going to make it and that possibly the world was ending.

Years ago, the first bag I made was an envelope clutch. Not only did I not have a pattern, it was the first time I'd taken out my sewing machine aside from 10 years earlier to make some very simple curtains. It took at least 10 attempts before I figured out the geometrics of that first bag. And I wasted tons of fabric doing it. It was incredibly frustrating. Now if I need to make something that is brand new to me, I at least know to make a muslin first. 

For this bag, it wasn't exactly "new to me". So I decided to "skip the muslin". Afterall, it's based on a pattern I made years ago for my handbag line, the Lizzie Pocket. So it was going to be "no problem."

Except, for the sewing pattern, I wanted to change a couple things. First, I wanted to add a zipper. And I also I wanted it to have a handle.... And I wanted it to have a flat bottom. Oh, and also? I wanted to finish the ends of the zipper using ribbon. I knew how to do all of these things except that I'd never added a zipper underneath a flap before I'd never used ribbon at the ends of a zipper, and I wasn't exactly sure where the heck the handles were going to go. I knew in the seam with the zipper it would have been bulky and goofy, so it wasn't going there. Since I was at a loss, I decided to bag the handle for the first prototype. (yes, I totally knew there would be more than one prototype.)

So here was the first try (make a note of this... I finished this whole bag, hated it, ripped out each seam and made it a second time with the same fabric)

My reaction (I talk out loud to myself in my studio): "Whoops! That right corner doesn't want to sit right... And wow, I think I made the loop a little long for the button. Do I want a button? Yes, I want a button because some people won't have the magnetic closures so I need to give them an option here. Also, It sure would be nice if it came in two sizes... Hmmm... I'll deal with that later."

Here's take two, I worked it with the handles. And it was a great idea... except...

Me to self and possibly to Izzy and Max the giant Labradors who live here: "ooooh, that's much better. Still not crazy about the loop. And what am I going to do about the handle". ((You can't see here, but it was flipping backward)) "Hmmm, maybe I'll add some buttons" (I tried that, I don't like how it looks) "Hmmmm... maybe a *bunch* of buttons will make it work. Could be cute?What about some French knots? Oh, what the heck, I'll try both."

Oh lord help me! WHAT was I thinking?

Ah! Much better:

Hello? What about actually SEWING the handles to the top of the bag? Oh. I see. (Sheepishly) That works nicely.

Some other challenges along the way... first, the zipper: Turns out, you need two pieces of ribbon for each end, and you have to sew them on at the same time. (3 tries, 2 uses of the seam ripper before I got it straight.) 

Another of the things that had to be different about this pattern as opposed to the Lizzie Pouch was that it needed to use different pattern pieces for the flap, back and front whereas Lizzie is made from one piece of fabric that is folded to form an envelope. One of the reasons for this was of course, the zipper. It needed a seam to rest in. Which meant that the zipper, the flap and the back panel would go in that seam. That actually turned out to be only slightly challenging. I relented, and did the "B" word. Basting. And it truly required it so I didn't mind so very much.

That's it in a nutshell... at least the prototyping part. It wasn't too painful, and the pattern will be better for all the effort that went into it. 

Now for actually Writing, Illustrating, and Designing the pattern booklet itself. Since I took lots of photos as I went along and wrote lots of notes, that'll be a snap, right? 

I'll be sure to let you know.

Comments

[Sharon]

1.

Such an interesting post. While I don't publish patterns I've designed and written instructions for some sewing magazine articles. And you hit right out of the ballpark. Sometimes what I envision in my mind and sketch on paper is so simple that I dive right in. Only to come up against obstacles I hadn't quite thought through - LOL! It's nice to see that someone of your expertise and talent still goes through many of the same steps. Thanks for posting!

[Shari]

2.

Very fun! I love how you share your fun process of pattern writing! I truly heart you Bari! You are so inspiring and keep me on my toes. I'm glad we are fabric, applique design sisters! :)

[Vicki]

3.

Cute bag! I have tried to do zipper tabs using a popular free tutorial and it still hasn't worked right for me. Thanks for sharing your process :)

[SarahB]

4.

Thank you for sharing that things don't always work the 1st time, even for you! :) The finished bags are great!

[Lisa]

5.

Always fun to see how others come up with their designs!

[wendy]

6.

Inserting a zip with a fold-over flap is something I've wanted to learn for a while. It looks like this will be a cracking pattern.

[Shelley]

7.

It's so comforting to know that even people in the "big time" get frustrated and waste fabric. Not that I'm congratulating you about that, but it does make me feel better to know that I'm not the only one who doesn't make it right the first time when attempting something new :)

An I'm so eagerly awaiting the arrival of Paris Apartment!!

[Carmen]

8.

Oh my gosh, reading this made me feel so much better! I am not alone! There are others like me! Thank you for sharing your process, I feel like I can go on now.

[Shawna - 1 Choice 4 Quilting]

9.

This was absolutely wonderful! Thank you for sharing the process and everything you go through. Absolutely wonderful!!

[Ann]

10.

Thanks for sharing!!!! Don't worry I don't create patterns and I talk to myself all of the time & I don't have dogs that I could pretend to be talking to either. I guess I am a slightly crazy person. Hahahaha

[CalicoCaliDsgns]

11.

Love love love the ribbon over the zipper ends!
Great post...made me laugh out loud at my desk.
- Kat :)
PS. My mom always says the following about talking to yourself: "you get better answers that way" ;)

[Kelly]

12.

Bari, you are so funny and awesome. I feel the same way about the b-word, too.

[Simone Howell]

13.

I love the ribbon ends on the zipper...can't wait to figure out how to do that! Looks gorgeous Bari! Are you gearing up for Market? I don't think I'm going....reeeealy wanted to but not ready yet.

[Marci Girl]

14.

I love your photo with the buttons and french knots, you saying that it is embarrassing is the funniest thing ever, I literally LOL'd. Thanks for that, I needed it!

[Brita]

15.

The bag is adorable. Trouble is, people who know me will think it's asymmetrical by accident! The fabrics are so yumm.

[tina]

16.

Adorable! And you know, humility in designing truly is a sign of pure genius---- right? :)

[Jamie]

17.

This makes me feel so much better about the amount of time I have my seam ripper in my hand! The clutch is really cute and I would love to be a tester for you again once you get the instructions written up. Will this beauty be accompanied by other new patterns at market?

[Selina Koreski]

18.

Oh my, what perfect zippers! Bari, you are amazing.

[Suzanne]

19.

Reading through your designing process helps me understand what makes you tic. You have a very unique style and excellent sewing techniques. I look forward to seeing more of your fabric collection and patterns in SL. I am loving what I see here.

[Judith Blinkenberg]

20.

Love this post. I strugle with totes and bags without a zipper. Afraid. Look forward to this pattern and the fabric line even more. Thank you.