Adventures in Interfacing ... and a give-away!

 Years ago, when I first started making handbags, I tried every interfacing known to sewing-kind. I ended up throwing in the towel on regular sewing interfacing when I started getting the bags made by an industrial seamstress, and I won't even get into that. It involves rolls of fabrics and heavy machinery. The most important thing is that when you sew a bag at home you end up with a bag that feels industrially sewn. Or at least as close as you can get. 

On my first go-round, I just used a woven cotton fusible interfacing. Clearly not enough. I like a bag that stands up. I had no idea what I was getting into at first. 

Going from the sublime to the ridiculous, next I tried Timtex. I used that for a long time, but I hated every minute of it. Timtex is a thick interfacing that is fusible. It almost feels like a thin layer of foam. It makes for a very thick bag that stands on it's own, but good grief it's a pain in the neck. It tends to crunch the fabric and cause bubbles when you bend it after fusing it on. I tried putting a layer of thin interfacing under it to remedy that. It worked. A little. But sewing through Timtex alone is a pain in the keester. Try adding another layer.

Then I tried fusible fleece... which I still use a lot of. I like it because it adds body to the fabric. But... it only makes the bag stand up a little bit. Not completely. I have been known to double the layers of it though, and I often add a layer of woven cotton fusible interfacing underneath. That works quite well.

About six months into this process of trying different things, I found heavy crinoline. It works very nicely. But it's cousin, Buckram, is even better. While still thin like the crinoline, it has just a tad more stiffness. However, it is not fusible. And I don't like that it's a loose layer. So, to remedy this, I put it on top of a layer of fusible fleece, and add small, thin dots of fabric glue here and there to hold it in place. I don't recommend adding glue unless you have a layer of something in-between the fabric and the buckram or you'll see the dots of glue on the fabric and have little stiff spots.

 And, I'll add another little caveat... you've got to be aware that buckram is used for millinery, purses, corsets and more. It does a big job. It makes the bag stand up, but I'm not going to tell you it's heaven to sew with. It's definitely doable, but you will need to be patient. The hardest part will be the topstitching when finishing a bag. I do have some suggestions to help there though. Here goes:

1. Make sure your bulky seams are trimmed pretty well. You can't trim too close because you don't want the seams to open, but you can get pretty close and trim some of it out. 

2. When you get to the seams where it gets bulky, stop, keep your needle down and rotate the wheel by hand a couple of stitches. 

3. I also suggest slightly increasing your stitch length for the top stitching.

4. If you have one, use a walking foot. 

5. Needle down position. For a long time, I didn't realize that my machine had a needle down position. Meaning, when you stop sewing, the needle stays in the fabric. If your machine has that feature it is really helpful when doing that last topstitch to finish the bag. That way you can sew nice and slow, stop to make sure you are sewing straight, that the lining isn't rolling up into the way etc. Call me a goober, but when I figured that out, I thought I'd won the sewing lottery.

The bottom line on interfacing for bags: Layer it. I now use a combination of Form Flex, Fusible Fleece and Buckram.

So there you go... Oh. Did I say something about a give-away?

 I did. My Art Journal line of fabric is shipping to stores 4/25... If you want to win a fat quarter stack of the whole group, I'll pick a winner on that day. 

Just leave a comment and tell me what you'd like to do with it. You can have an additional entry, if you tweet about the give-away. Just make sure you tweet @barij so I see it.

Happy sewing!

Comments

[pam]

1.

Yeah, I def want in on that give away. Love the bags thanks for all the information!

[Handwashcold]

2.

Hm...I'm still new at this, but what about using something like HeatnBond to fuse a nice stiff sew-in interfacing to the fabric?

If I win the giveaway, I'll try this method to make a bag, and let you know how it works! :)

[Jennifer W.]

3.

Oh oh oh! I have the most lovely spring-weight quilt planned and this stack of fat quarters would be the best! Birds? Yes, please!!!

[Sivje]

4.

Wow Bari, thank you. I struggle with the whole interfacing thing for bags. For garments, I just prefer Easy Knit straight across the board, but have never found a great solution for bags. I have all of the types you mentioned so I will play with the layering. I have buckram as I use it in various costume things for my girls.

I think if I were to win these GORGEOUS fabrics, I would use some of it for a bag. I have a bag idea floating in my head that I am dying to try. I may also use some of it for a small quilt. I want to learn quilting but want to start small. And beautiful fabric may hide my mistakes better! heehee!
Thank you for the chance and I SO HOP I win

[Kim K]

5.

You know what weird interfacing-like product worked for my last bag? That thin, flexible foam that they cut in to shapes for kids crafts. I found it in big sheets at the store and it was perfect for adding a little more umph to the bag (I was using Amy Butler's Sophia pattern). I used fusible fleece on the exterior, light weight fusible on the lining, and cut the foam to size (minus seam allowances) and held it in place with a little fabric glue to the fleece. Worked out beautifully!

[Heide]

6.

I am determined to start making some clothes again for my girlies, and this fabric would be perfect for that! Ruffles, pockets, pants and skirt hems... Whee! Gimme! :)

[Bari Ackerman]

7.

That is brilliant!
Bari

[Mauby]

8.

Too. Many. Options. Wonderful fabric lines always leave me in a blunder. I want to make this, that and the other thing. Hrmm, I would probably use it in a quilt that I have been working on the block designs for about a year now (yes, I do that. A lot.). It is the perfect color combinations for what I was looking for!

[Tiffany]

9.

Well now that we're talking about handbags so much...I can see using this fabric for some beautiful handbags! And thanks for the different ideas about interfacing. I never know what to use in my bags either. The one I am making now is the first time I'm trying fusible fleece in a bag.

[Sarah Vee]

10.

Thanks for sharing all the interfacing info. I just used sew in interfacing on a bag for the first time - and only used one layer of it instead of attaching some to liner and outer. It stands up pretty good, but I had never heard of some of your options! Your new line looks heavenly. I would use it to make my daughter a lovely quilt as she has plans to repaint her bedroom to lavender this summer! Thanks for the chance.

[Jennifer]

11.

Kim K, that is an absolute awesome idea!! I love it and will have to try it.

Bari, I am working on a stash of materials for a quilt and I have never made one before but I want it to be colorful and ecclectic. YOUR new line would be *perfect* to add in with my other great pieces!!!! OH I am sew very excited!!! Congrats on the new line, I can't wait for it to hit stores.

P.S. I will be tweeting too :) @sewhappyJen

[Sara]

12.

I'd use the gorgeous line of fabrics to do bags... all shapes and sizes! Thanks for the interfacing tips too! I've only used fleece, but would love to try something new!

[Kristen]

13.

I would totally make a quilt with these. So pretty.

[Jamie V]

14.

Wow. Great post. Thanks for the inspiration. I think that if I won the beautful fabrics I would make a quilt or wallhanging for my nephew. He is getting married in July and he's the first grandkid on both sides to get married! I'd like to do something special for them! Jamie V in MT
http://rem-nants.blogspot.com
[email protected]

[LindaSonia]

15.

Allrighty then... an adventure in interfacing that was for sure. I feel like I really learned something.

Count me in for the fabrics - would be thrilled to win!!

[Angie H.]

16.

I want to make a hexigon quilt. The colors are so pretty, I think it will pop. I am actually looking at some of your last line on my sewing table right now and it would mix with this pink beautifully. I was going to use it in a wallet, but I'll put it back for now and just hope!

[Belinda Gelhausen]

17.

I would definitely make a quilt and then use the scraps/left overs to make some small bags for myself, family and friends :-)
These fabrics are just gorgeous!

[Patrice]

18.

Thanks for the mini-tutorial on the interfacings. It IS always a challenge and I'm going to try your suggestions.

Would love to be entered in the Art Journal Fabric drawing, too ~ :)

[Jen Moore]

19.

I would make my girlie girl a twirly patchwork skirt if I won!

[Kaye Prince]

20.

Oh yes please! I would use this for one of my new quilt designs (which I'll be showing around at Market) - wouldn't that be lovely?

[Dusty Atterberry]

21.

Gosh, interfacing can be such a pain, but that's great information, thanks!

Hmmm...if I won the fabric, I'd want to use it for a bag, but it'd probably end up as something cute for my daughter (she gets all the cute stuff).

[Lori Porten]

22.

Oh, how I would love to win this! Wow, they look so beautiful, and very rich in color. You did a great job! I have been on a quilting kick lately, so I think I would use them for a new quilt if I was lucky enough to win! Thanks for all the interfacing tips! Good stuff.

[Valerie]

23.

Oh the little birdies are going to grace my table as a cute little runner for Mother's Day! Thanks for all the great ideas!

[Stephanie]

24.

Well now that you've got me thinking about interfacing and handbags....I would love to make a handbag with it!!! I'm really lovin' the polka dots!!!!

[Teresa]

25.

Great Colors!

[Laurie Anderson]

26.

Oooooh! I LOVE this blog! I didn't know about it till my friend Sivje tweeted about it today! YAY! I am not a follower and will find you on fb too and twitter! Please come and visit my blog too at http://sewnso.blogspot.com

[Kristy]

27.

Lovely fabrics....I just found out I am going to be having my first grandchild......so I would make a baby quilt with a matching baby bag. It would be so much fun. Kristy In Ohio

[Katherine {Sevi Designs}]

28.

I would make a fun bag, or dress, or mini quilt :)

[Theresa O'Connell]

29.

Great fabrics and thanks for the interfacing tips. I've used timtex, and it can be a pain. As a quilter I'm torn, use the fat quarters in a quilt or make another bag? Thanks for the chance!

[Dianne Hadaway]

30.

Awesome article on interfacings Bari! I haven't tried buckram, haven't used it in years since I used to make draperies with pinch pleats! I LOVE your fabrics and would just be so stoked to win that beautiful stack of so I could see all your designs up close and personal! I would make card cases and some new accessory designs I have on the drawing board, then feature them on my website and blog and then I'd have to buy lots of your fabrics because I'm sure the orders would be overwhelming! Hope I win - this is a great giveaway! I'm off to tweet about it now!

[Cindy S]

31.

Love it, I have a hard time with interfacings and there are so many.. I'm still using the fabric you gave me to decorate my sewing room, it's just so pretty! But when I get time I'm going to make a crazy quilt with it. And now I want to make a bag!!

[Sivje]

32.

Hi again Bari. I tweeted about this too. Thank you!

[Stefanie]

33.

Hi Bari!

I think that I would spread all of the fabric on the floor and let it "speak" to me. However you know that I only "quilty talk", so it would probably be some type of a quilt.

Thanks for sharing.

[Peggy]

34.

Beautiful fabric and thanks for the tips! Would love to win your fabrics!

[Fiona]

35.

Beautiful fabrics! Please count me in.
I like to make the linings of my bags in beautiful, unexpected fabrics so that the owner gets as much pleasure from the inside as they do from the outward appearance of the bag. I would also really like to make myself a pencil roll for my new drawing pencils. Oh, and a pin cushion and a glasses case....

[Shirley Hudson]

36.

It would be fabulous to win the fabric! I would make lots of my mice pin cushions...they would be great at the farm chick show!
http://Hudsonsholidays.blogspot.com

[madelia]

37.

make a quilt that's what i would do.

[Shanna]

38.

These are so very yummy!I would make a fabulous quilt! Maybe a bag.Oh,probably a cute spring coat too!

[Debra]

39.

It looks so lovely! I'd make a skirt or dress for my little girl like I did with your last line and maybe something for her room. The teal would be perfect!
Thanks for the bag tips!

[Jennwith4]

40.

How fun! Thanks for all the great info on interfacing. I've never heard of most of the things you were talking about but will be checking them out. =)

I'd use the beautiful fat quarters to make a lovely quilt...or maybe some beautiful skirts for my girls...maybe just a skirt for me...ok, ok I think...oh I'm not sure I know whatever I make it will be beautiful with those beautiful fat quarters!

[Jennwith4]

41.

I tweeted too =)

[Bradie Sparrow]

42.

Tweet tweet!

[Bradie Sparrow]

43.

Oh dear. I think I messed up my first comment. K. Take two. These FQ would make the cutest little patchwork dresses for my tiny two year old Sophie. Her dark hair and eyes would just dance with all the beautiful colors. Anything left over would become the garnish on some guest towels I am planning to make, then hide from my children. Like Mommy's Special Towels. A girls got to have something for herself right? Thanks Bari. :)

[Ellie]

44.

What wouldn't I do with this gorgeous fabric? My imagination is going wild!

[Ellie]

45.

Tweeted!

[Rebecca]

46.

You know that old saying, pigs get fat, and hogs get slaughtered? Well, I feel like a HOG even THINKING about entering this giveaway. BUT I am ! :)

I would love to make my daugher a skirt with those adorable birds and dots...

[Anita]

47.

I would make a beautiful quilt! Where do you buy buckram?

[Jenny]

48.

thanks for the info on interfacing and bag making...im completely befuddled by the whole process!
Id love to add your new fabrics to my full bloom collection for a quilt for my mom! tahnks for achance to win!

[Good Grief Girdie]

49.

I would love to win your new line of fabrics...........I would use the fabric making jewelry floral pins, pillows, journals and I use fabric for ties on my book journals. Thank You!

[Veronica]

50.

Simply LOVE all the fabrics. I would have to have a new bag with a matching pin. I have a new pattern and your fabrics would be simply fabulous! New bag and matching pin...it doesn't get any better than that. And thanks so much for all the bag 411, I just found out about buckram last week. Blessings!

[Mary Ann]

51.

A quilt and at least one cute summery top for my granddaughter. love these fabrics!

[Lisa]

52.

Ah - I think my comment disappeared - if not, so sorry for the repeat! I love your new fabrics. Very pretty! I'd love to make a quilt with them using some new tricks I learned at a quilt retreat for beautiful diamonds!

[Barbara]

53.

Ooooh...beautiful fabrics.
New pillows and a throw for my sad looking sofa.
Many thanks for the bag tips.

[Susana]

54.

And here I thought you were about to giveaway some interfacing! I like this better!
What I would do (other than coo at and pet the fabric for a spell)? Something about this line says "bag" to me. So there's that, and then I have to get cracking and make dresses and bloomers while my itty one is still small enough I can make stuff out of a couple of fat quarters.
Any bits left over are for quilting.
Thanks for the detailed post, and the chance to daydream a bit. And congrats on the new line!

[Jemellia]

55.

I am working on a gift closet, the fat quarters would be great to make bags and headbands, etc. for the ladies in my world.

The new line looks great, btw.

[Tammy P]

56.

Wow, you're braver than I to sew thru Buckram!; I use it for hats, etc, but not where I have to topstitch!

That being said, the new line is delicious; I just closed on my first house after 27 years married, and would adore creating a yummy quilt for the white front porch!

[Vicki]

57.

Thanks for all the bag tips. I finally gave up making bags due to all the interfacing blunders! So, I think all that beautiful fabric would make a pretty cool hexagon quilt:)

[dorothy]

58.

of course i would make a quilt with your lovely fabrics! i love your tea party quilt and have all the fabrics--however they're in a long line of planned but uncut quilts! thanks also for all the tips on interfacing--a little scary & intimidating but you make it sound doable.

[carmel]

59.

where did my comment go? if its here so you can erase this one- sorry..
but what i said is that i would so so so want to win this giveaway!
i adore your fabric! realy!! ilove the colors, flowers style- every thing!
thanks!

[Merrie Baldwin]

60.

I LOVE your fabric. The colors and brightness never fail to make you happy and smile. If I were to win your set of FQ's I would use it to make aprons. I have been making lots of adorable aprons to sell at an upcoming craft fair. 100% of my proceeds go to help send about 30 kids to summer camp. In this economy, almost every one of these kids has at least 1 parent out of work, many have both. Some kids are from single parent homes struggling to stay afloat. So I have done fundraising year round for the past 4 years to send anywhere from 18 to 30 kids to camp each summer.

[Doina]

61.

Great giveaway! Please count me in! I'd use the gorgeous line of fabrics to do bags or a table runner.

[Beth]

62.

What would I do with it?
I'd have to give it some thought...a quilt comes to mind or a patchwork skirt, but I'd like to think I could take it outside the box.

[Maria M]

63.

There's so many things I'd love to do with a fat quarter stack of your fabric, especially since I have all your patterns now. It would be fun to just experiment with each!

[Lesli C.]

64.

What would I not do with these!! Gorgeous! Mod podge some coasters, make hair bow holders for the girls, make a flower pin! So many possibilities!

[Lesli C.]

65.

I retweed! (@seemommyknit)

[Jodi]

66.

Hi Bari!

I would love to win some of your gorgeous fabrics to get me motivated to start sewing again!

We have found buckram to be a very useful product for stiffening the hood brims in the Goretex jackets the company I work for makes. It's a well kept secret. We've been using it for years. It's true that it's not the friendliest for top stitching.

[simone mayze]

67.

I think I would just have to look at for a long time and eventually make it into a throw for the winter is coming.

[email protected]

[Amy W]

68.

How lovely! I think I could make some sweet little girl clothes out of that. Maybe a sweet mama skirt, too!

[Gussy]

69.

why, I'll sew some Limited Edition Gussy's with it! :] thanks for the opportunity!!!

[Nancy & Jo]

70.

I would sew something for my little Emma Jayne. Or make a purse. Or what about a pieced apron? The sky's the limit:) LOVE IT ALL!!!! Congratulations on the new line!

I think this will post as TCC, but it's me, Paige

[eileensideways]

71.

i like to make 18" quilts for a hospice house; they give one to each patient and the family has something to take home to remember; these fabrics would really brighten someone's world. so pretty.

[Karen]

72.

Thnx so much for the info on the interfacing. I am going to get som Buckrum the next shopping trip. I make many bags for my girlfriends and work companions and I have struggled with the fabric not crumpling like you mentioned. Thanks again for the tips... If I win the give-away, I think I will be making myself a lovely quilt, It has been awhile that I have made something for myself.
Thanks again.

[michaeleen]

73.

I would love to make some beautiful aprons. What a nice collection!

[Judy Calderbank]

74.

What a nice offer......I would use to make a table topper, placemats and napkins

The tutorial is something I will definitely try .....I've just started quilting and the bags I've are a little limp

[Nancy Lynn]

75.

I would probably use it for bags. This is gorgeous material. Thanks for the chance to win this.

[Jan]

76.

Again you have inspired us! I would love to create some gadget covers with these! Beautiful fabrics! Thanks for the opportunity to win these fat quarters! :)

[Amanda Pedro]

77.

thanks for sharing all of your interfacing combinations. nice to hear other people's experiments.
As for all that fabric!! hhmmmm, I don't know what I'd make with it, a bag to be sure, but it would have to contain at least 3 different fabrics at once. how fun!
thanks for sharing

[Kristin McCoy]

78.

I use fusible fleece most of the time. I was so happy when I found this product. It made world of difference. But I do agree that is is still a bit flimsy.

Fat quarters are my weakness. If I had a whole stack of your fat quarters...I'd be in heaven. I would make clutches and key chains and cuffs for my shop and then maybe a patchwork bag for me!

[Tina]

79.

Gorgeousness! Love this gorgeous stuff.

[Debbie]

80.

I just love your blog! Thanks for all the good info on interfacing. If I were to win the fabric (and I hope I do), I would make something frilly for my granddaughter. She's 4 and just loves clothes. Thanks for the opportunity.

[Meredith]

81.

If I were to win the fabric, I would make a rag quilt for a college friend's new baby. And a Buttercup Bag (which uses an FQ) for my teenage stepdaughter, who loves fabric but insists she'll never use a handbag.

[mcregan]

82.

I would love to make a quilt for my niece--thank you!

[Linda]

83.

:)HAPPY SPRING!
I think I will make a Spring Mini Wall Hanging; however with all that fabric I'll probably make one for each Season! Thanks so for sharing,love,Linda

[email protected]

[Izzynivy...Jana]

84.

Hmmmmmmm......I'd make as many different things as I possibly could so that I could spread the pretty around!

[Icitea]

85.

Is it okay to say I'd see what i /can/ do with it? I have a couple dozen DIY sewing projects in my bookmarks, and I've been dying to try them.

le.paradis.found at gmail dot com

[Patti]

86.

I'd make purses and wallets with that fabulous fabric! Funny you mentioned the "needle down" feature...I'd been looking for it on my machine for years. Never found it. Until recently. Like you, I thought I hit the jackpot!

[andrea]

87.

Thanks for all of that info.
Interfacing for me is a love hate relationship.
I'd love to make a bag or 2 with your fabrics:)

[Robyn / Coffee and Cotton]

88.

Very very beautiful fabric. I am torn between a quilt or some bags for my daughter that is off in Australia for school. The fabric is soooo Her!

[Shirl]

89.

Thanks for the info about buckrum. I'm going to give it a try on my next bag.
I would use the fabric to sew a summer table topper. The fabrics are beautiful!

[Shae Check]

90.

I too have struggled with interfacing in my bags. I had no idea there were even more options.

Yeah for new fabric! I hope I win.

[Ann]

91.

Thanks for the handbag tips. If I won I would make aprons or a quilt throw. I so want to get back into sewing and I just bought a new sewing machine!

[Theresa]

92.

Like others here, too, I am rediscovering the joy (as well as the frustration;) of sewing I long gave up in a less patient time of my life. However, I never lost my love of fabric. Some of my fondest memories of my mother are of us looking through her fabric stash and her telling me the well told stories of how and when each piece came to be. She's gone now, but the fabric remains. Now melded into my own stash. That's what great fabric is made of–don't you agree? I can't promise I'd make one single cut into your lovely, lovely fabric; but do know I'd be sure to enjoy it either way!

[[email protected]]

93.

I love your fabric line. Just happened upon recently and have added it to the top of my "stash". When it comes to fabric, if it catches my eye, it is a "must have" (and your line is definitely a "must have") - even though I usually have no clue what I am going to do with it. I do need a fun and funky day/beach bag so that is probably what I would use the fun fat quarter for. Can't wait to get sewing!! Wendy

[Alexandra]

94.

Gorgeous fabric, I love the painted look and your colour use. I am thinking I would either make a large tumbler block, thousand pyramid or drunkards path quilts.

[Joanna]

95.

Thanks for the info about interfacings for bags - I like the standing up look too!

As for your gorgeous fabrics - oh my, I would get soooo much mileage out of them! I would make bags and purses, trim pillowcases, a skirt or two for my daughter, flowers for hair clips, and of course, I would use them in quilts:)

[Katy]

96.

Thanks for the interfacing low-down. I am kind of scared of it.
A W E S O M E giveaway - thanks for the chance!!!

[Claudia F.]

97.

Love the fabric, love the blog, so much to create!
Claudia F.
[email protected]

[amy]

98.

hhm... interesting, I think I'll try that. Also, I love the fabrics! They're so colorful and spring-ish. BEAUTIFUL!!!

[Kimberly Shaw]

99.

Your fabric designs get more beautiful each time you come out with a new line. Your bag is gorgeous!

[andria]

100.

I would love to use these fabrics in a new quilt!