Also, now that Bijoux is in stores, we have a free quilt pattern available for you...
Download the pattern here...
Also, now that Bijoux is in stores, we have a free quilt pattern available for you...
Download the pattern here...
First, to get in the Bijoux mood... you'll need to watch this incredibly special video that Art Gallery Fabrics put together. It really expresses just how versatile this line is. And... this is totally the sexy version of my earth mama, Bijoux. Lawd (fans self), I had no idea I'd created such a damn sexy fabric line until I saw this. Thank you a million times to Pat Bravo and the incredible people at Art Gallery (I'm looking at you Kat) who put this video together!
Now, everyone head over to Melanie's house and see what she made with Bijoux... and ask for a strawberry lemonade... Bijoux would totally drink that. The Bijoux in the video I think maybe spiked it a little too. Go ahead, add something saucy. If you are wearing a little mustard or magenta (together really is best) that make a great party outfit.
Here's a few more photos to inspire your inner Bijoux.
Please note: do not enter to win here. You must enter on the blogs on the launch party list above. Thank you!!!
What does a Bijoux by Bari J. launch party look like? Well, a little like this...
So get your party skirts on...
... and go see what all of these fantastic bloggers have made with Bijoux! It's in stores starting tomorrow!
Look for the incredible video that Art Gallery Fabrics put together to show you what Bijoux is all about tomorrow as well.
And be sure to post your own Bijoux creations in the Bijoux by Bari J. group on Flickr!
Some of you may know, I'm a total office supply geek. I love paper products and I love organizing. Over the years, I've developed a system for keeping myself organized. I'm big on list making, and I always have a to-do list going. I organize my to-dos in priorities of A, B, or C which keeps me on track. I also have monthly and weekly calendars. I'm so excited to announce that now you can use my system with pretty graphics from my not yet released fabric line, Bijoux for Art Gallery Fabrics, by simply downloading the printable pack from my web store.
My Bijoux fabric has arrived, and I've started sewing. It will be in stores this May, and of course, I can't wait to see what you will make. Instead of showing you the whole line right now, I'd like to tell you a bit about it's story.
Bijoux is my vision of a woman who is very much a free spirit. She travels around in her vintage caravan collecting things that she loves and that inspire her. She's an artist. And a loner. I envision her as an unusually tall woman with long streaming blond hair. She wears turquoise bracelets, boho skirts and beat up cowboy boots. I see her in dancing barefoot in the desert at night with the stars lighting her way. She's a rocker. She's a gypsy. She loves life. Bijoux means little jewels in French, and it is also the name of my main character. This fabric collection is bits and pieces of her life... as she is bits and pieces of me.
The story of Bijoux looks a little bit like this. For sneak peeks of what I'm making, be sure to follow me on Instagram.
Caravan photo from Les Roulottes une invitation au voyage Jeanne Bayol Editions Aubanel
Ahhhhh... Days like today...
should happen more often.
Today was a rarity around here. I drove my kids to school ... in my pajamas. I didn't even bother putting a bra on (much to their chagrin). When I got back I had breakfast and coffee, painted for a bit, and then I sat on the sofa and embroidered. All. Day. And I was at *work*, people... work. Seriously. The embroidery is for a pattern that's coming out this spring... so I can definitely say I was working. On the sofa, in my pajamas. Bliss.
At 2:30 pm I picked the girls up from school (still in my pajamas), and then sat on the sofa an hour more and embroidered. At 4pm I went to the gym where I took a grueling and totally awesome spin class.
And now I'm showered and back in PJs!!!
I quickly fed the troops soup and sandwiches for dinner, and I'm off to embroider until bedtime. Or paint. It's behind me calling my name.
As far as Super Husband is concerned, however, I worked my butt off. I know you won't tell.
Two Stories I Tell Myself.
I actually wrote this last night at midnight when I had racing thoughts as I tried to go to sleep. I wrote it on the notes app in my phone. And it helped me get to sleep. My thoughts were about how recently... well over the past several years really... I've been busting down the old walls I built around myself... How I'm rewriting my truth by destroying old negative self truths. By doing what I thought wasn't possible. The pictures in this post are just a small example. I've told myself for years that while I can design on the computer, I can't design with actual paper, paint and pencil. I believed this. Until I tried.
I have two stories. I'm going to tell you both of them because I'm betting at least some of you have similar stories. One is true. The other? Sadly, that's the one that's easier to hold on to. You've told yourself this story since you were old enough to start collecting stories. And you hold on to it because it is deeply rooted in personal history... some of which you may have been too young to understand.
The other story takes far more courage to believe. But in the end, it's your true story. And only you can write it.
Maybe it's the writing that makes it so difficult. It's gotta be 'eeked out of the dark recesses of who you really are.
The first story? You didn't write it. It's things that you assumed, it's something a teacher said in elementary school, it's the way a childhood friend treated you, it's simply your place in the birth order between you and your siblings. It's all too easy to hold on to.
This is that easy story... and though it's easy to remember, it's not without hardship. I've told myself this story stretching back to my earliest memories. I've told it even when I thought I wasn't. It's the story of what I'm not good at. What I can't do. It's the story about how I'm not liked. If you do like me, it's the story about how if you only knew the truth about who I really am, you would not like me anymore. It's a dreadful, painful story. The telling of it has shattered bits and pieces of me. And yet it's my voice that tells the story.
If only I/she could be quiet. There's a louder, happier story that needs to be told. A story that doesn't get told nearly as often as it should. A story that once and for all stomps out the smoke from the first story.
The story that needs to be told is the one in which I win. It's the one that says that when I try hard enough, I succeed. It's the one in which I'm good at things I never thought I could be good at. It's the one in which I'm not ashamed of my achievements (as if they aren't my own to share), but proud of them. It's the one in which I don't care if you like me, because I like me enough for the both of us. It's the one in which what I have is enough. I'm grateful. I'm peaceful. Although I tell myself this story over and over, it's at constant war with the other, prickly story. But it's this story that's gonna win. Is winning. Because I'm writing it... I'm not relying on old truths, half memories or something someone else told me.
Bit by bit, day by day, year by year ... it grows louder. It grows more fierce. It's angry at the old irrational story. It pushes through to be the one true story.
It's my story. It's your story. It's the true story.
Curved Edge Dresden Plate How To
I made one of these as a pillow for my quilt market booth for Splendor 1920 and have just made an updated version that I'm about to turn into a pillow as well. This time, I used two Art Gallery Elements fabrics for the backgrounds to give the vintage dresden an updated look. Here's how I made my dresden and the background.
8 fabrics for the dresden petals (12" x 12" is plenty), 1 fabric (4") for the center, 2 fabrics (1/3 yard each) for the background
2/3 yard of fusible fleece (this will give you extra)
fat quarter of muslin
Washable Elmer's Glue
Needle and matching thread for applique
Thread conditioner like Thread Heaven (optional)
Download pattern: Download Dresdenplate_templates
Cut 16 Dresden petals and 1 circle center from the attached pattern. I used Splendor 1920 in the "Elegance" colorway for all of the petals and Oval Elements Licorice for the center (note: one of the most important parts of getting the dresden to lay flat will be really accurate cutting. Too much or too little fabric will cause the plate to bow and lay all loopy-ish.)
Cut one piece of fusible fleece 18 1/4" x 18 1/4"
Step by step:
1. Piece the four pieces of elements together in a square for the background. I alternated prints.
2. Lay out your dresden design. I went with a design in color order from darkest to lightest. When I'm satisfied with my layout, bring it over to the sewing machine on a small cutting mat to keep it in order. I've been known to move them around if I don't leave them just so. You can also take a quick phone photo of your layout to remember the order.
2. Place the first two petals right side together, and sew together along one edge using a 1/4" seam allowance. (Note: As I mentioned before, accurate cutting is super important. A super accurate seam allowance is also imperiative.)
3. Keep adding petals until all 16 are attached, then sew the first petal to the last petal.
4. Press all of the seams to one side.
5. Place the dresden right side down on the piece of muslin. Pin it in place.
6. Cut the muslin to the shape of the dresden.
7. With the dresden still pinned to the muslin, bring it to the sewing machine. Set your machine to a slightly shorter stitch. Mine is usually at 2.5, so I bring it to a 2.0. This helps to go around small curves. Starting at a seam, sew around one curve of a petal using a 1/4" seam allowance. When you get to the next seam, stop, pivot at sew to the next seam. Repeat until you've sewn the entire way around the dresden.
8. Press to set the stitches. Snip to but not through the seams all the way around the dresden. It will be especially important to snip at the seams between petals to avoice bulk at the points.
9. Turn the dresden right side out through the hole in the middle. Press well. I use a pin to pull each seam neatly out. It's important to really take your time doing this to avoid puckers and points.
10. Place fabric circle and the muslin circle right sides together, and sew together using a 1/4" seam allowance.
11. Snip to but not through the seams as you did for the dresden.
13. Place the dresden exactly centered on the background. Use elmers glue to hold in place. Press to set the glue. (This washes out.) Do the same for the circle on the top.
14. Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the base.
15. Using a blind stitch, stitch the dresden to the background. This is how you applique by hand. If you are familiar with hand sewing binding, it's like that, except that I take even smaller stitches.
15a. Start at the top of the fabric and bring the needle through the background taking less than a 1/4" stitch.
15b. Exactly where the needle came up, place the needle into the dresden taking less than 1/4" stitch right in the fold (the edge of the fabric) of the applique (dresden).
15c. Exactly where the needle came out of the edge of the applique fabric, place it back down into the base fabric. Continue until the entire applique is sewn in place.
Note: My Rule of thumb here is, if you can see the needle between stitches, you'll be able to see thread.
You can see below where I've taken about five stitches along.
Once you have the entire dresden and the circle center stitched in place, you are ready to quilt as desired. I did a different design on each petal and then an all over flower for the background. Now I'm ready to make this into a pillow! The instructions for pillow making will be in a separate post.
Splendor 1920 Modern Crazy Quilt
I started this quilt in early December. I decided to make a crazy quilt because the style was extremely popular in the Victorian era. And I also wanted to show how the prints can be used in small bits. To give it a modern twist, I separated the blocks with sashing (Pure Elements in Nocturnal by Art Gallery) and set the blocks on point. It is comprised of 25 - 12 1/2" blocks which are foundation pieced on muslin. I used the stitch and flip method as I did on these string block coasters. They are set on point with 2 1/2" sashing. I then added 14" borders on the left and right and 6 1/2" borders on the top and bottom to make a king size of 110" wide by 98". The fabrics are, of course, all from Splendor 1920.
Because I can never leave well enough alone (as you know, more is more in my world), I added little bits of collage here and there. I simply cut out motifs and free motion quilted them raw edged to the top of the quilt.
Additionally, I used my Aurifil 12wt set to stitch the top of several blocks. I did this using my machine and I had 28 weight in the bobbin. The muslin base stabilized the work nicely. I decided not to do the whole thing with stitching as I didn't want to ruin the modern affect I'd created by going too overboard with details.
Thank you and Stencil News
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your comments on my post yesterday. Thank you so much. I'm doing much better now, which is likely why I could write about it ... December was definitely one of those months.
Meanwhile, I did mention that I would update you on the stencils... and it turns out, they were actually posted for sale yesterday. Probably as I wrote that post. I'm really excited about these. There's something about transforming spaces that gives me great joy, and I hope that these will do the same for you. You can get all of the following stencils at royaldesignstudio.com. Click "new stencils" to find them. This is my collection. Thank you so much to Melanie Royals. This has been a long time in the making as we started thinking about this idea in 2011. My move to Arizona among other things diverted our attention, but the collection is here at long last!
I don't know about you, but I'm super glad it's a fresh new year. I needed it. If you know me, you know it's not something I at all hide, but it's not something I blog about ... in fact, I think I only wrote about it the one time, over on Cresendoh... Over the years, I have dealt with my fair share of depression. If I'm not super careful about how I take care of myself, I can really spiral out of control. In mid December, I found myself fighting hard to overcome a downward turn. After the horrific event in Connecticut, I spent the fair bit of a week on the sofa. I think I was headed there anyways, but that flattened me more than I wanted to admit at the time.
I know that from the outside looking in, it looks like I accomplish a lot. And the truth is that, that's one of my coping mechanisms. Keep on swimming. An object in motion stays in motion. I knew by a couple days before New Year's Eve that I had to *do* something to snap out of it. I started the stencil project that day, and I've been keeping myself busy since. It's really helped. If keep busy, my mood is better.
I finished the stencil wall before New Year's Eve because we were having a party, so I was sort of on a mission. (The whole stencil collection will be available very soon, an update is coming.) Finishing this really helped me to move on from my gloomy gloom. Here's how it turned out...
And here's a peek at some more stencils that are in the collection:
I've also been fast at work on my crazy quilt project which I hope to have done by the end of the week...
and like many of us, I got sucked into the scrappy trip along. I can't believe I got sucked in on this one, but there you have it. It was too tempting.
I have two more "fight depression" techniques ... one is cleaning. And I really got the room here in order thanks to that...
At any rate, now I'm rethinking pressing the "post" button here as I finish writing... But I'm going to put on my big girl panties and do it.
I hope that if any of you have the same sort of issues, this helps. I really do think that depression is something to be worked on and overcome. It's not something I feel I "suffer" from. It has probably made me a much stronger person.
Here's to a happy and healthy new year to you all! Lots of love,
Royal Design Studio + Bari J.
This is happening... A stencil collection with Royal Design Studio.
Coming in early January.
I'm about to go try this out on my dining room wall... So excited!!!
Are you looking for the Holiday in London Duffle?
Hi there, readers from In Color Order... Jeni posted her duffle bag made from my pattern, and so now I'm worrying you are looking for it but can't find it. I don't sell my newest patterns on my own site, so if you are looking for it you can find the Holiday in London Duffle Bag over on Fat Quarter Shop! Happy Sewing!
November/December Adventures in Quilting and Sewing: Part Three
My two months of non-stop sewing continues...
I also started a crazy quilt with Splendor 1920 this month. I'll need 25 of these blocks to finish, but I'm well on my way with 15. I'm really excited.
This are constructed using muslin as a base. And sewing using the "stitch and flip
method. I simply place a piece of scrap fabric, right side up on top of the muslin. Then a second piece is placed on top right side facing the first piece. I then sew a 1/4" seam allowance, and flip the second piece right side up, and press. I continue until I've filled the entire square. Then I trim to the original block size. Which, in this case is 12 1/2" unfinished.
Obviously each of the blocks end up looking completely different, depending on what scrap I happened to grab...
There are some in which I left the selvedges on... My mom asked me why I "left the tags on"...
And I've decided to decoratively top stitch random blocks with my Aurifil 12 wt Splendor 1920 box of threads. I did these all on the machine! Not by hand.
And there will also be random blocks that I've free motion quilted raw edged motifs to... for little added surprises everywhere.
I plan to make this a king size quilt as I have never actually made a quilt for my own bed, believe it or not. So in the end it will be five rows of five squares set on point with 2 1/2" sashing.
I'm using "Nocturnal" from Art Gallery Pure Elements collection for the sashing.
Still and yet... I had gifts to make this month too. All the crazy quilting and free motion quilting did lead up to that... I'm getting there... see part four for more.
November/December Adventures in Quilting and Sewing: Part Two
After I finished my sister's quilt, I moved on to that table cloth ... you know, the one that I made the mitered border video for? After we got home from our trip to Colorado for Thanksgiving I got to work quilting it. Here are some of the work in progress photos... I'll show more from the back than the front as you can see better. I ended up not using batting but just flannel on the back, because I wanted it to drape well on the table. But now that I've worked so hard quilting it, I'm not sure about that decision. Batting would make the quilting stand out more.
I did swirls all over the center and then for the peacock feather borders, I decided I wanted to do feathers. Of course, I didn't know HOW to do feathers, so I looked it up and found instructions somewhere on the internet... I'm sorry I can't find the original link, but there are a lot of tutorials out there. Here's my practice piece. Oy. Vey.
And here, I got brave and put it on the quilt... I echoed around the feathers and then put swirls next door... to the left.
And on the floral inner borders... flowers.
As of right now, I've got one more inner border left, then I have 4 outer borders. Quilting takes a long time, but it's SO worth it.
I thought I'd add, since I know some will ask... I quilt on a Juki tl2010Q ... It's a straight stitch/quilting machine and I LOVE it!
And the fabric, of course, is Splendor 1920.
November/December Adventures in Sewing and Quilting: Part One
First, I want to remember to tell you something, and I know some of you are going to be disappointed, but I promise in the end you'll be happy. You know that ruffle duvet cover that I said I'd post the pattern for? It turns out I can't. I've been asked to save it for something. It's something really good... So, my apologies. For now, I have to hold on to it. But I will be posting other items from my quilt market booth as tutorials very soon. (Should I open my eyes now? You aren't throwing tomoatoes at the screen are you?). Let's move on?
I've been doing a ton of sewing and quilting as tends to happen in November and December for me. First I really really wanted to finish that hex quilt for my sister before I saw her at Thanksgiving time. But I was handquilting it if you remember. I decided the only way I was ever going to finish that quilt was to machine quilt it.
As many of you know, I've done lots and lots of free motion quilting for fabric collage. And I've always said that fabric collage is a great way to get your free motion quilting feet (or hands as the case may be) wet. But as much FMQ I've done in collage, I've never attempted an organized quilting motif for a quilt. So I ordered both of my friend Angela's books and studied up for a bit. These books truly made things click for me, you guys. I really love them. I ended up finishing the quilt and now I'm totally addicted. You'll see in the next few posts... I can't stop quilting stuff. It it isn't nailed down, I'll quilt it. And let me tell you, it gives things such dimension and texture! I'm in love.
At any rate, for the hexie quilt, I ended up leaving in the hand quilting and machine quilting right on top of it. I was really concerned about that at first, but turns out, it's a look I really like.
Do forgive my quilting as this was my first attempt at a whole quilt like this. I got better as I went along as you'll see in the next few posts. I'm showing lots of the back here because it was easier to see from this side.
I did end up giving the quilt to my sister after binding on the plane,
in the hotel room and in my brother and sister-in-law's living room! All's well that ends well!
PS the fabric is Flower Sugar from Lecien.
After this, I moved on to a table cloth. More to come!
Once a month, I involuntarily rearrange the furniture ...
and a recipe just because.
It's when I'm feeling particularly hormonal... you know what I mean? Anyone else do this? My mom and sisters do... and so do my girls. This month I was hell-bent on rearranging the kitchen. All I did was rotate the kitchen table, and move a couple chairs around the house, and declutter ... but it was very satisfying.
It started with a sideways glace at the cover of this fabulous book...
... But it caused a whole hormonal upset ... sending me reeling toward the furniture.
I turned the table 90 degrees... and removed the homework debris left by a pair of teenagers.
Then I added the runner to the top of the buffet... and shifted the tins to an angle. Because everything looks better on an angle.
And I moved the chair from my office to the left of the buffet (let's face it, actually sitting on it was breaking my back anyways).
I covered the cookies which were going stale on my favorite milk glass cake stand with the cheese dome. I've long since broken my glass cake stand, but the cheese dome, which was also a wedding present, is still in tact.
Then I decluttered the family room because it was desperate... why do all the socks and shoes end up under the coffee table anyways?
After these photos were taken, I abruptly messed the joint up decorating for Christmas and Hannukah... we celebrate both here. More on that later.
In the meantime, I'm going to share one of my favorite recipes because I instagramed this photo yesterday and it occurs to me not everyone makes kugel or knows what it is, and if you do, you still need this recipe because it's really the best ever. We make this for almost every Jewish holiday and several not so Jewish holidays. Our non-Jewish relatives request this is what we bring to parties. Kugel is a sweet noodle casserole generally served as a side dish and there are many variations on the theme ... before you look at the list of ingredients beware your cholesterol could rise just by reading it. YUM.
Betty's (my mom) Sweet Noodle Kugel
Preheat oven to 350
1 cup of milk
1 stick of butter, melted
1 cup of sugar
6 heaping tablespoons of sour cream
1 large package of wide egg noodles
1 package of cream cheese
6 slices of nasty processed American cheese (woot!)
Grahm Cracker Crumbs
Cinnamon Sugar mixture
1. Boil the noodes and drain.
2. Mix the eggs, butter, sugar, milk and sour cream together with a whisk.
3. Mix the Noodles with the liquid mixture.
4. Grease a large casserole dish.
5. Pour half the noodle mixture into the casserole.
6. Rip 3 pieces of American cheese up into 1/2" - 1" bits and spread around on top of the noodles.
7. Spread 1/2" chunks of half the cream cheese brick around evenly on top of the noodles.
8. Sprinkle with graham cracker crumbs and cinnamon/sugar.
9. Evenly spread the rest of the noodle mixture on top of the first layer.
10. Repeat steps 6 to 8.
11. Bake at 350 uncovered for an hour or until lightly browned.
Double Mitered Borders Video How To...
The Tea Delights print from Splendor 1920 whispers to me... "please make me into a table cloth"... She's not sly about it either. She's loud. She wants to be put on a table. Napkins, tea towels, table clothes, runners, place mats... She's screaming at me.
As you know I've obliged with napkins... and I also caved and made a table cloth. I was going to hem it, but I'm thinking I'd like a heavy table cloth, so it's going to get quilted. I'm thinking a flannel back... maybe no batting at all so it hangs nicely without being too thick. I don't want it to look like I threw a quilt on the table. So, the jury is out on that.
However, the point of this post is to show you how to add double (or any multiple) mitered borders to a quilt. Like I did with this table cloth. It's really easy as you'll see in this video. The hardest part is figuring out how long to make your borders.
Once you've got them cut, sew them together and just treat them as one border.
The formula is in the video, but I thought I'd put it in writing here as well.
Decide how wide your borders will be first. Then figure out how wide they will be once sewn together.
To figure out how long each piece should be use this formula:
(finished width of border) x 2 + (unfinished WIDTH of quilt) + 1" = length of border for quilt width side
Do the same for the unfinished LENGTH of the quilt...
(finished width of border) x 2 + (unfinished LENGTH of quilt) = 1" = length of border for quilt length side
And, here's the video explaining the whole process... Happy sewing!
Aurifil Ornament Blog Hop!
Click here to download my ornament... Download BariJ_AurifilOrnament
Instructions for assembling the ornament can be found here.
How to use your Rolled Hem Presser FootAs you may know, when I made the ruffle duvet (tutorial coming, I promise), I made about 3000" of hem. There was not a good way to do this by hand, so I decided to learn how to use that rolled hem foot that came with my machine. I read the instructions and practiced on a couple pieces, but the first couple inches were so difficult to feed, they were coming out totally wonky.
But being that I have friends who totally know their sewing stuff, I decided to text the one I just knew would have an answer... Heather from Fiberosity. She edited the McKenzie coat pattern for me, and knows sewing patterns and machines inside out and upside down. And of course she had an answer... not only that, she made a quick video on her phone and texted it to me.
In getting ready for the holidays I decided to make some napkins. The Tea Delights print from Splendor 1920 (in stores now) is screaming to be napkins, placemats, tea towels, runners and table cloths. So, I cut 16 that I planned on making double sided...Like I did in that LillyBelle tutorial ... here.
I finished all of four of them before I realized I was not up for all that pressing and messing around with miters. Not enough time for starters.
They're cute, right? But more work than I bargained for.
In the end, I cut what would have been backs to the same size as the front and now I have 32 napkins cut which I will simply hem the edges of. Some will go to mom and some to my sister in law who is the hostess for this Thanksgiving. This is a super easy project to do. And napkins always make a great hostess gift... these you can pull off in a matter of a hour!
My napkins are cut at 18 1/2" and finish at 18".
Here's a quick video I made to show you how to get those hems done lick-ity split with your rolled hem foot.
Many of you have asked how to hem a second side... like for napkins... And, yes, it can be difficult. I fiddled with this for some time and this is what I have come up with:
Usually, when I do a hem without a hem foot, I like the corners mitered in order to avoid the very issue we are having with the second side here... bulk. I suggest doing the same when you are using the rolled hem foot.
So, before you get started sewing, fold each corner over 1/4" toward the wrong side of the fabric at a 90 degree angle as pictured below. Use a touch of lapel stick or glue stick to hold it in place. Just pressing it won't work. Without the glue I was finding that the fabric rolled about and got twisted. Just the tiniest dab will keep the fabric in place.
When you finish the first side, don't trim the thread. Just leave the tail and use it for the next side rather than sewing in the inch as you did on the first side. This will again save on unnecessary bulk. Now turn and repeat for the second side as you did the first. While this method did take some practice to get correct, simply turning in those corners and glueing in place really did help quite a bit. The proof is in the pudding below...
I hope this helps. If anyone else has any additional suggestions, let me know.
Fun was had by all... and then... sleep.
Hi there. Long time no see. I feel like I'm "just" back from quilt market, when really, it's been more than a week. The truth is, I'm only now recovering from it. I totally did myself in this time. As fun and exciting as the process is, it is exhausting and stressful too. I was pretty hard on myself getting ready, and didn't get much sleep. I was inevitable... I got sick. And it was of my own doing because I wouldn't relax. Thank goodness for my friend Jona who did much of the job of driving home while I spent much of the time whining. I slept for two days when I got back.
At any rate, you don't want to hear all the poo poo about how tired I am... it was really very fun and super exciting to see how people reacted to the new fabric and patterns... And I met tons of wonderful people.
You may have seen much of this already if you follow me on Twitter or Facebook... but I did manage to take a few pictures of the booth with my good camera as opposed to the phone. So here goes...
Yes, I did drag a bed to quilt market... but if you sat on it you'd have ended up on the floor... air mattresses did the trick. No box spring.
Here's a closer look a the ruffle duvet cover ... yes. there will be a tutorial. But be forewarned, this is not a complicated project... but it's a dosey. I think it's like 12 yards of fabric. I estimated about 3000" of hem and ruffling to do. Yikes. However, IMHO, totally worth it in the end.
I'm a stitckler for always having flowers in my booth... funny story. This time I forgot to order in advance. I hopped in a cab and asked them to take me to the nearest one on the map in my phone... Yeah, ummm... that was a UPS store. The real store was on the other side of town. WHY they put the address of the UPS store on their website, I'll never know. They actually posted store hours. Long story short? The driver took me to another shop which was actually closed for wedding prep, but the really really nice lady opened the door for me anyways (crying works, people) and sold me two bouquets AND had her delivery guy take me back to the convention center. Greenworks in Houston if you are interested.
Here is what I ended up putting the cross stitch into... I think it gives the pillow some oomph.
And here is another view of the pillows... dresden is a classic 1920s pattern. It had to be done.
That's all the photo editing I've gotten through for now. My intent is to to go through each project in the booth over the next couple months and show ya' how I did it. Hold me to that, k?
Splendor 1920 ... cross stitch and embroidery with Aurifil!
When I designed Splendor 1920, I had images of the ladies of Downton Abbey doing their beautiful embroidery work that you see on the set here and there. I'm not sure if they would have done cross-stitch, but I was anamored by the look of it. So, I designed a piece that you can both embroider and cross stitch right on top of to embellish. The only problem was, I really wanted a way of giving you some sort of kit to just grab the colors and go. So, I contacted the fabulous people of Aurifil, and asked if they might be interested in doing a box set of 12 of the colors in the line. And much to my surprise, they said yes!
It's been a couple months coming, but I'm so happy to be able to show it to you now... A 12 spool box of 12wt Aurifil Cotton Mako threads for you to use with Splendor 1920 ... and any other projects you might see fit. It's awesome for both hand and machine stitching with a top stitch needle. I absolutely love this stuff, and I'm sure you will too.
The cross stitch piece in Splendor 1920 was designed to go from selvedge to selvedge. The thinking being, if you were to use the whole width for say, I child's dress, it would drape beautifully. The bottom part of the design features 3 border prints of differing widths and then the top part of the design is a tossed mix of cross stitch. I like the idea of using the borders for quilt borders, edges of skirts and coats, tea towels, pillows and so much more. I'll be showing you more of how it can be used on project in the days, weeks and months to come.
Instructions for Interfacing on Bags ... the double edged sword.
I have made hundreds, if not more bags, so this is something I really know about. When I made finished bags for sale, I probably tried every product and every combination you can think of. And still, Interfacing is the conundrum of bag pattern writing.
I don't want you to have a mushy, lightly interfaced bag, and on the other hand, I don't want you to struggle with many layers. I've had to make a decision about how to run with this, and I like to err on the side of not making you break you needles by sewing through 12,000 layers or the stiffest products on the market.
On the new duffle bag, for instance, I decided to have you use a layer of interfacing and a layer of fusible fleece OR use a layer of interfacing and a layer of Annie's Soft and Stable. I'd prefer you use the Soft and Stable. It really performs the way it's named. It's soft (easy to sew through) but it's stable (your bag will have body and stand on it's own). If you use the Soft and Stable, it's a sew-in interfacing. Therefore, you have to use a layer of light interfacing underneath it or your fabric could tear. So, do you now want to interface the lining as well? You totally could. But, in my opinion, you don't have to. That additional layer could be the one that breaks the horses back, or you could really like to have it... I'd be guessing there. So, I decided this time, not to have you interface the lining.
Of course, I do want your bag to stand up nicely. The Soft and Stable does this. However, I also have you do a process of top stitching at the end that helps. And it gives the affect of piping without the layers. You'll press together the outer panels/side seams and do a "Pin-Tuck". Pin tucks are when you fold fabric together like a pleat and stitch them together... But on the bag, I'm simply having you tuck the seam together and stitch on top of it. Here's a picture of what it looks like:
In the end, I have to instruct on the back of a pattern to tell you what you should buy for each pattern. But if I could, I'd put all sorts of buts and ifs with the instructions because what I really want is for you to have choices. Below is a list of interfacings I've used and their basic pros and cons. It really is a matter of what you like, what your sewing machine can handle and what you want to sew through. Happy sewing, and I hope this helps a little in your interfacing decisions.
This gives light body and is great for linings, pockets etc. It's also great for underneath sew-in stabilizers such as Annies Soft and Stable.
Cons: It can't be used alone on a bag... just not enough.
Gives extra body and stabilizes.
It's still pretty light to use alone. And it's not stiff. It might be wise to double layer this product.
Light weight and easy to sew through. Will stabilize bag while keeping it soft.
Very high loft
This stuff is tough. It will make your bag thick and stand up. It is fusible.
This stuff is TOUGH. It will make your bag thick. It's not super easy to sew with. It's fusible, but, often causes wrinkles in your fabric. You have to really take your time fusing this on or possibly use a cotton fusible underneath.
Heavy weight duck or canvas:
When I made finished bags for sale, I had full rolls of fabric backed in canvas professionally. It was fused on with heavy machinery. It really helped to make a nice thick bag that stood up. You can acheive this by making your canvas fusible... simply iron fusible web to the back of the canvas, remove the paper, and fuse to the wrong side of your fabric.
Tough to sew through.
This is a very heavy crinolyn product used in hat making. I love this stuff. It's a sew in product. It is thin, but really stiff, so it's easy to sew through.
While it's easy to sew though, it tends to slip a bit. And because it's so stiff, you'll find it a bit difficult to maneuver through the arm of your machine. You will also have to use a layer of fusible fleece to give it more body.
Bari J. Fall 2012 Sewing Patterns
Useful. That was the word that I kept going back to as I planned and designed the sewing patterns for this season. I wanted everything to be something we all could use.
In keeping with my "useful" theme, all of the patterns feature my "Keeping it Real" side bar hints and tips as they have in the past. These tips are things that I have learned along the way, that you don't usually read in sewing patterns. Like, "How do you sew past the zipper pull?", for instance. And, "How do you keep the opening you turn through neat and even?".
One of the things that I've been wanted to make for myself for years now, and an item that I get asked for all the time is a wallet. A wallet is something that you need to be "just so". It has to take a beating and it has to have space for all the things you need space for. The design of this wallet is something I worked really hard on. I wanted lots of pockets for cards, space for checks and for money and of course, a spot for change and of course a driver's license window. It even has a removable zipper pouch in case you don't want to take the whole wallet. In the end, it's exactly what I wanted. It really has it all, and it's a great afternoon sew... perfect for gifts. The fabrics featured here are from my upcoming Splendor 1920 line.
Next, I had to do an art portfolio. For one, when my girls were little, I was always looking for spots to store their art work. I have a couple purchased portfolios, but they were never just what I wanted. And for another reason, my now 16 year old daughter drags around a piece of poster paper that is folded and serves as a makeshift portfolio... every. single. day. It's falling apart, and she totally needs a good place for her growing portfolio of work. This portfolio features a heavy duty zipper top, and a clear window pocket on the front. Featured in Splendor 1920.
Another item I've always wanted to make is a duffel bag. It needed lots of pockets, a zipper and it had to conform to carry-on standards... Damn the airlines for making me pay $25 to check my luggage! Now I can carry on a bag on in style. Featured here in Splendor 1920 fabric.
And last, Suzy created an adorable coat (read: coat = useful and stylish) in sizes 2T through 6/8. I'm seriously in love with this piece. It's exactly what I wanted and more... a peter pan collar, 3/4 and full length sleeves, A-line and an adorable yoke at the top adds incredible detail... oh, and what coat would be complete without a ruffle... I love the piping and ruffle detail on the sleeve. And of course, a girl has got to have some pockets. These are lined pockets with a sweet box pleat detail. This is sewn in my LillyBelle line of fabrics.
All of the patterns are currently at the printer and will be available for wholesale purchase after 10/29... and yes, if you will be at quilt market, we will have them on hand for you to take home with you.
Splendor 1920 sneak peek!
As we approached our house today coming home, I squealed! And my girls nearly jumped out of their seats.
But there was a big box of in front of the door and I knew just what it was... fabric! My fabric. Splendor 1920 is finally here!
I'll be making up probably at least an item a day now until market ... I leave with my buddy Jona as co-pilot on the 24th of October. And yes, we will have the big-ass trailer. I'm a certified expert now, you know. If you can call a person who drives a Honda with a trailer and ONLY stops at places that she won't be forced to back up said trailer an "expert".
But I'm guessing you've already scrolled down to see the fabric and didn't read that last paragraph. If so, go back after you've looked, K? I imagine myself as somewhat comedic and wouldn't want you to miss out.
Without further adieu... I present... Splendor 1920.
Sewn Hats Blog Tour
It has adorable patterns from some of the top designers including: Alexia Abegg, Mary Abreu, (me), Melissa Averinos, Jacinda Boneau, Lisa Carroccio, Jess Christian, Kim Christopherson, Jaime Morrison Curtis, Joanna Figueroa, Shelly Figueroa, Jennifer Hagedorn, Linda & Scott Hansen, Karen LePage, (me), Kaari Meng, Heather Niziolek, Dolin O’Shea, Jennifer Paganelli, Pillow & Maxfield, Irene Rodegerdts, Anneliese of Aesthetic Nest, Vonnie Shaffer, Melissa Stramel, Betz White, Patty Young and Carla Hegeman Crim. A great list to be sure!
In this book you'll find hats of all styles to sew. For my project I did a cloche style featuring my signature collage technique on for the brim of the hat.
There are hats for kids and adults for warm and for cold weather. Something for everyone to sew and love... I also think the hats will make great gifts. In particular, I'm thinking of topping little girl's bday presents with one of these too fun party hats!
So, how about a chance to win a copy?
Leave a comment here before 4PM PST Friday, the 28th to win!
Winner will be drawn using random.org
Visit these other stops along the blog tour for more chances to win:
9/4 – Scientific Seamstress
9/5 – ModKid Boutique
9/6 – French General
9/11 - Lulu Bliss
9/13 – Green Bee Patterns
9/14 – Goosie Girl Boutique
9/17 – Melissa Lilac Lane
9/19 – One Girl Circus
9/20 – Tie Dyed Diva Designs
9/21 – Figgys Patterns
9/25 – Craftiness is not Optional
9/28 – SisBoom
10/1 – Sew Mama Sew
10/2 – Aesthetic Nest
10/3 – Blue Nickel Studios
10/4 – Betz White
10/8 – Yummy Goods
10/10- Wiley Craft
The comments are now closed... the winner is #18! Dee-Ellen Cook!
Claim your prize!
Family Photo Wall with Fabric Accents
I've not fallen off the earth. Ive just been in Chicago for a shower last weekend and a wedding this weekend. I'm writing this on my phone so I trust you'll forgive wonky photos and typos. Also, the app won't let me label the photos on this post so you'll have to play the matching game.
In the week between the two events I basically had nothing to do. So I did a little cross stitch, visited quilt shops, and decorated my sister's house with a new picture wall. The cross stitch fabric is from my Splendor 1920 line due out in November. It's printed cross stitch from selvedge to selvedge.
The fabric is simply stretched over wood frames and stapled in place. Don't bother getting the canvas... Very expensive. Hobby Lobby has the wood frames that you can put together in the art/painting department and they cost about $6/each. If I realized I was going to do this, I totally would have brought my own fabric. Ha ha.
For the picture frames, my sister had a bunch of different colored frames. To make it cohesive, I spray painted them all a creamy white.
I used a really simple method to hang Ilisa's photo wall so I thought I'd share it with you. Here's how I did it:
1. Lay out the design on the floor.
Design hint: I did a couple things with this design to keep it from looking too hodge podge. You'll notice there are four vertical rows with three pieces in each row. In each row the pieces are centered above one another. The top and bottom horizontal rows are level with each other. The only piece that deviates from this is the "family" plaque. And you'll notice on that piece I managed to keep the lower letters aligned.
2. Trace each piece onto paper and cut out. (I taped together brown paper bags.)
3. Fold each piece of piece of paper in half to find the vertical center and mark at the top.
4. Turn the picture over and measure the distance from the top to the point where the nail will go into the wall. Mark that distance on the front of the paper.
5. Arrange the paper on the wall and tape on with painters tape. Adjust as necessary.
6. Hammer your nails through the paper where you marked for nail holes.
7. Tear the paper off and hang your pictures.
Did you know that Art Gallery Fabrics does exclusive quilt kits for shops? This is just one of the many incredible reasons I love being an Art Gallery designer. They support their designers and they support their shops better than anyone (IMHO).
This is their newest kit ... Flight Fancies, featuring my LillyBelle collection for Art Gallery Fabrics... sold exclusively at Hawthorne Threads.
For more details about this quilt kit and how to order, visit Hawthorne Threads and follow their simple steps.
PS... Art Gallery has two additional new designers you need to check out Jeni Baker and Sarah Watson.
Check out the Art Gallery Designer page for more information!
PPS... Almost forgot... My Spring 2013 line has just been finalized and will be released for sale to stores at Fall market. Details soon!
Aurifil Designer of the Month...
It's me this month! This was a really fun block to do and I'm totally in love with Aurifil 12 wt. I had no problems with tangles and I just love how it looks on the fabric. My piece was based on the lily in LillyBelle. I used just three stitches: stem, back stitch and french knots. You can brush up on your stitches by watching the videos on my embroidery blog, We Love French Knots. For all the info, and the PDF pattern, go to the Aurifil Blog.
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 14. Fabric File Portfolio
Whew! Wiping the sweat from my brow. The last project is finally done. And 14 projects in 21 days? I'll call that a success.
I hope you have enjoyed this series. I look forward to doing another (um... shorter) series when Splendor 1920 arrives in stores. Here is the 14th project. It was inspired by the loads of paper I picked up today for school registration. Happy Sewing!
1/2 yard of double sided fusible heavy Pellon
1/2 yard each of two contrasting fabrics
1/4 yard each of two constrasting fabrics for binding
1 each ON FOLD - 13" x 9 1/2" - 2 contrasting fabrics and pellon (opens to 13" x 19")
2 - 3" x WOF strips for binding on top and ties
1 - 3" x WOF strip for binding on sides
Step by Step:
1. Press each piece of fabric to opposite sides of the pellon. (wrong side faces the pellon)
2. Make binding and ties (see day 11 curtains for how to make binding except you won't need to attach pieces together for extra length as on the curtains).
3. For the ties, take one WOF piece of binding and cut it in half. Finish the ends by opening the folded binding on one short end. Fold the end in half wrong sides together and sew a 1/4" seam allowance along the short end. Turn the binding back so it is folded properly. Edge stitch the open side of the binding closed. Set aside.
4. With the "portfolio" open, sew binding onto each top edge (again, see curtains day 11 for binding instructions).
5. Sew the ties on. With the "portfolio" open, mark the middle of the top edge of each side of the folder. Place the raw short edge of the tie at the top of the folder at the mid point, just below where you've sewn on the binding. Along the short raw edge of the tie, sew the tie on using a scant 1/4" seam allowance. Flip the tie up, and sew it on (enclosing the raw edge) 1/4" above the fold. Repeat for the other tie.
6. Sew the side binding on. Cut two pieces of binding that are each 10 1/2". Fold the "portfolio" in half. Open the binding, and place it on top of the front of the folder along one raw edge. Leave an extra 1/2" at the top and an extra 1/2" at the bottom. Sew the binding through the two layers of the folder following the pressed fold as you did for the other pieces of binding. Flip the binding to the back, fold in the two raw edges at the top and the bottom, and press in place. Edge stitch the binding from the front as you did before.
14 Days of LillyBelle ... Day 13. French seamed pillowcase.
I love these pillowcases. They take under an hour and are such nice pieces when they are done. The cuff is double sided, and with French seams you have no raw edges anywhere... another great gift!
Watch the video for all of the instructions. You'll need 1/4 yard for the cuff, 3/4 yard for the main fabric and 1/8 yard for the flange.
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 12. Tube Top.
This was probably the easiest and most fun project so far. I'm beyond excited because my teenager said she would actually WEAR something I made. I fashioned this after a tube top she got at Target, and let her pick the fabric. It was interesting to see what she picked (vintage fence in the cool sunrise palette)... and she said she would buy it if she saw it in a store, so I'm feeling like The Bomb Mom!
Here's how I made this...
3/4 yard fabric
2 yards of 5/8" elastic
This is for a small tube top... Em is probably a size 0-3. It's such a baggy/loose piece, that the only real difference will be in length of the elastics and length at the hem.
Measure your wearer, just under the underarms around the top of the chest. Subtract 1 - 2". Cut elastic to that length, then cut in half.
Cut a second piece of elastic 1 to 2" bigger than the first piece. Cut it in half as well.
Measure the wearer from just above the chest, to the mid hip (or longer depending on how long you'd like the top to be), add 4 to 5". Cut a piece of fabric that is the measured length by the width of the fabric. Cut the fabric in half so you have a piece for the front and a piece for the back of the top.
Step by step:
1. Hem: Fold the top edge in 1/4" toward the wrong side, then an additional 1/4". Edge stitch along the inside folded edge.
2. Sew on the top elastic: Using a zig zag stitch, top stitch the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric, just below the top hem. The elastic is shorter than the fabric, so you'll be pulling as you sew to make the elastic stretch from one end of the fabric to the other. The trick here is to start very slowly. Take a couple stitches so the elastic is held in place, then as the fabric comes behind the foot, use one hand to guide the fabric from behind, and the other to stretch the elastic as you sew along. Repeat for the back of the top.
3. Sew the elastic at the bottom: Measure 3 1/2" from the bottom raw edge, and draw a line across on the wrong side of the fabric (I used a heat erasable pen... you can use chalk or another erasable method... even a press line will work). Use your guideline to sew the second piece of elastic on. Repeat for the back of the top.
4. Place the two pieces of fabric, right sides together and use a 1/2" seam allowance to sew each side together. Zig zag stitch or serge to finish the seam. Turn and press.
5. Hem the bottom edge as you did the top.
14 Days of LillyBelle.. Day 11. It's Curtains for Lara!
My sister just moved into a new home, and she desperately needed curtains. The sliding glass door she has is over 9 feet long, and the former occupants, had an 8 foot rod on the window and some seriously frightening curtain panels that didn't fit. On top of that, her toddler and 1 year old pulled the whole deal down the other day. Lucky for Lara, I'm in the midst of my self-imposed challenge and needed a good project. So off I went on my curtain making adventure.
Now, some of you know, that I have made a huge amount of curtains in the past. So, frankly, I was a little cocky going into this. This is actually the second set of curtains created yesterday. I had originally planned using white fabric where the yellow is. I had about 8 yards of white corduroy left, and I wanted to use it up. I cut everything very carefully, and set the leftover fabric aside. HOWEVER, when I went to put the corduroy panel on the second curtain, I grabbed the leftover fabric unknowingly. And it was 1/4 of the width. It was the end of the day, and I was exhausted, not to mention hungry... I didn't notice. Until we hung it on the window and which point I dissolved into a angry/weepy mess. Low blood sugar + exhaustion = really unhappy Bari.
I had wanted to photograph and get this post up last night. Instead, I spent the remainder of the night (until 12:30PM) remaking the curtains entirely... I had cut into the properly cut piece for another part of the curtain, and didn't have any left to be able to just fix the error.
All of that said, in the end, I like the second set better.
Lara didn't want lining because she wanted the sun to shine through a bit, so I decided to bind the curtains instead of hem the sides and bottom:
By doing this, I think it gave the back a bit of a more fininshed look. Plus, it really frames the whole thing nicely.
A basic how to on curtains:
Lara's window was 112" the entire way across. I made two panels and each is 110" wide finished (nearly the entire width) in order to make them ruffly. i.e. = equation for each panel is 1/2 the window x 2.
Note: I actually used 3 pieces of fabric for each panel width... when you decide on width, take seam allowances between panels into account.
Here's what you need to take into account:
1. Rod pocket. I made a 3" rod pocket plus I finished the top of the rod pocket with a top top stitch that took up 1/4" inch. There for I added 6 1/2" for the rod pocket.
2. Hem. If I was going to do a hem, I'd add 1/2" to the bottom.
3. Height of brackets. Your brackets will be hung above the window. Buy your brackets first and measure them. Then decide where they will hang. Add the amount to the total height of your panels.
equation for panel length:
+ (rod width x 2) + 1/2" for top stitching at top of curtain
+ 1/2" for hem (If you are doing one. I didn't because I used binding.)
+ bracket height
If you are going to bind instead of hem here's the equation for amount of binding needed:
1 side of curtain x 2 + width of the bottom/width of fabric = number of 3" strips needed
Step by step:
Binding (note: you'll be binding the sides and the bottom, not the top)
1. Attach the 3" strips together by mitering.
a. Place strips in a backward "L" shape, right sides together:
b. Sew a 45 degree angle seam from corner to corner.
c. Trim off excess fabric in seam... here's what the miter looks like:
2. Press the binding in half lengthwise and press.
3. Open up and fold each edge into the middle and press.
4. Fold in half lengthwise again and press.
5. Open up the binding, align with the top right hand corner of your curtain, right sides together, raw edges matching. Sew along the first fold line.
6. When you get 1/2" from the corner, pivot and sew a 45 degree angle to the corner. Cut thread and take out from under foot.
7. To miter the corner. urn the fabric to the right...
8. Miter the other corner in the same manner, and sew to the top left of the curtain.
9. Once the binding is on the front, flip it over to the back, fold the raw edge in toward the wrong side of the binding and press in place on the back of the curtain. You can even use a little glue stick to hold it in place.
10. Top stitch the binding on from the front side (see the photo of the fininshed binding near the top of this post.
1. Measure 3 1/4" from the top of the curtain and mark.
2. Fold the fabric down toward the wrong side 1/4" (so there was no raw edge), and then another 3" (where you just marked) for the rod pocket. Pin in place.
3. Edge stitch along the fold on the wrong side of the fabric to close the rod pocket.
4. At the very top of the fold, top stitched 1/4" away from the edge for a finished look on the top.
Voila! You are finished.
14 days of LillyBelle. Day 10... Drawstring Gift Bag
I think I'll make a bunch of these to have on had as the holidays approach. They are super easy for a lot of impact. Plus, of course, you can make them in any size... great for shoe bags, lingerie bags etc etc... just re-size.
Here's how I made this one...
Fat Quarter of fabric
1/4 yard contrast fabric
Main fabric: 16 1/4" x 14"
Contrast fabric: 4" x WOF
Step by Step:
1. Serge or zig zag stitch all four raw edges of the main fabric.
2. Fold the two 16 1/4" sides and 1 - 14" side in 1/4" toward the wrong side of the fabric. These will be the side seam and the bottom of the bag. Do not fold in the top edge.
3. Edge stitch along the inside edge of the 1/4" folded fabric to hem.
4. Mark 2 1/4" down from the top of the fabric.
5. Fold the top edge toward the wrong side of the fabric along the 2 1/4" mark.
6. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew along the top folded edge.
7. Edge stitch along the serged/zig zagged edge. You've just created the casing for your drawstring.
8. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise so the side seams meet, right sides together.
9. Sew the side seam and bottom edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.
10. Turn and press.
Make the drawstring:
1. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together and press.
2. Fold each short raw end in toward the long folded edge at a 45 degree angle creating a pointed end.
3. Sew the raw edge and angle closed leaving a 4" -5" opening to turn. Turn and press.
4. Edge stitch the seam edge, closing the opening to finish.
5. Place a safety pin on one end of the drawstring and draw through the casing.
4. Turn the
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 9. Zakka Embroidery Organizer Wall Pockets
Today's project is a nifty little wall organizer for your embroidery supplies...
Here's how you make it...
Download pocket pattern pieces: Download Zakkapockets
2 - 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" pieces of fabric
Scraps in varying contrasting fabrics sized larger than 8".
1 - 1/2 yard fusible fleece
1/4 yard for binding
For front and back cut 1 each 12 1/2" x 12 1/2"
Cut pockets as indicated on pattern sheet
1 - 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" fusible fleece
Step by step:
Edit: In hindsight... had this not been a project a day challenge, I may have thought to quilt the piece first, THEN put the pockets on... I would highly recommend that. So, instead of making and attaching the pockets, first fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the front panel, baste the backing on, and quilt as you wish. I think I'm going to take the pockets off of this one, do straight line quilting, then put the pockets back on. You can sew the pockets on through the 3 layers. Bind when it's all finished.
Pocket 1 (ruler/pen):
1. Fold your piece of fabric in half with the right sides together (the fold is 3 1/2" across).
2. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew the long sides together and leave the bottom open.
3. Trim the corners, turn and press.
4. Edge stitch along the top 3 1/2" fold.
5. Place the pocket with the raw edge toward the top onto the fabric panel. The left hand corner should be 2 1/4" from the left side of the fabric and 5 3/4" from the bottom of the fabric panel. See below for placement.
6. Stitch onto the panel using a scant 1/4" seam allowance.
7. Flip the pocket up, press and sew a 1/4" seam allowance at the bottom of the pocket, enclosing the raw edge. Then top/edge stitch the sides in place.
1. Follow steps 1 through 4 above, except use the 5 1/2" width as the fold.
2. Place the smaller pocket in front of the larger pocket with the raw edges aligned.
3. Place the pockets with the raw edge toward the top onto the fabric panel. The smaller pocket should be facing the right side of the fabric panel (i.e. down). The right hand corner should be 1 1/4" from the right side of the fabric and 6 1/4" from the bottom of the fabric panel. See below for placement.
Pocket 3 (rounded hoop pocket):
1. Fold the pocket in half along the fold you cut on with the right sides together.
2. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew the two sides together. Leave a 2" to 3" opening in the bottom to turn (I usually baste through my openings and then open them up to turn... this way I have a stitch line to make it easier to turn the fabric in later).
3. Turn and press.
4. Edge stitch along the fold.
5. Center the pocket below pocket 1, about 1 1/4" from the bottom of the fabric, and edge stitch in place.
Pocket 4 (scissors):
1. Place the two pieces right side together and sew together using a 1/4" seam allowance and leaving an opening in the top.
2. Turn and press.
3. Center the pocket below pocket 2, about 1 1/4" from the bottom and edge stitch in place.
For top tabs, I created extra binding.
1. Cut off 2 - 4" pieces, folded the edges in 1/4" then fold in half. Edge stitch along the open edge.
2. Mark 2" from each side of the top center for tab placement. Align the raw edges of the tabs on the back side of your organizer, and as you sew your binding onto the front of your piece, sew the tabs in with it.
3. When you flip the binding over the top to the back and hand stitch, flip the tabs up and stitch them in place as well.
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 8. Doggie Bed.
Several weeks ago I went to great lengths getting foam for dog beds at the local big box sewing store. Let's suffice to say, thanks to a coupon ta do, I made two stops back there for the same item only to have a coupon argument at the cutting table when I finally did get the foam. Sheesh.
But I digress... for weeks now, I've had two ugly pieces of foam sitting around, and I hadn't gotten around to sewing covers for them. Lucky me. I commited to sewing with LillyBelle every day for 14 days... so now I had an excuse. I HAD to make the dog beds. And at least I did get one done today. I did this one with the zipper in the side... It's hidden under fabric flaps, and this is my favorite way of doing zipper on pillows of any sort.
How to make your own doggie bed...
1 yard of 5" x 24 1/2" foam
1 1/2 yards of main fabric
3/4 yard of contrast fabric
24" upholstery zipper
2 yards fusible fleece (optional)
Main fabric, fusible fleece – 2 each- 37" x 25 1/2" pieces
Contrast fabric, fusible fleece – 2 each - 3 1/2" x 37" pieces, 1 each - 6" x 37" piece, 2 each - 6" x 25 1/2" pieces
Step by Step:
Install zipper in the side:
1. Place the two 3 1/2" x 37" pieces right sides together.
2. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, BASTE the two pieces together along a long raw edge.
3. Press the seam open and place your zipper on top of the wrong side of the seam, right side of zipper down, centered on top of the seam.
4. Pin the zipper in place alternating the direction from which you put the pin in (see above).
5. From the right side of the basted panel, and with your zipper foot on, top stitch along the side of the seam about 1/4" away from the zipper. The trick here is to feel with your fingers as you sew down next to the seam, and reach under the fabric pulling pins out of the way as you go.
Zipper tip: you'll want to pull the zipper pull open as you start so it's away from the presser foot, then when you get to it, put the presser foot in the up position and wiggle the pull up again past it.
6. Sew back up the other side of the seam, again keeping 1/4" away from the zipper.
7. Use a seam ripper to open the basted seam exposing your zipper.
Note: if you have cut your zipper to length, you'll want to do a tight zig zag stitch in place to work as a tab at the bottom of the zipper so that you can't open the zipper past it (see below).
Sew the contrast fabric sides to the main fabric panels:
Note: For all of the seams, start and stop at the 1/2" point. You might want to mark 1/2" from the ends on all of the pieces.
1. Place the zipper panel on top of one of the large panels (main fabric) along a long side, right sides together. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, and starting/stopping 1/2" inch from each end, sew the two pieces together.
2. Sew the other three contrast pieces of fabric on in the same manner.
4. Repeat for the other side of the dog bed.
5. Starting and stopping at the 1/2" points, and using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew the four corners together... NOTE: Before you sew the last corner, open the zipper so you can turn through it.
6. Serge or zig zag stitch all seams, turn and press.
7. Slip on the piece of foam (read: wrangle onto the piece of foam)
8. Force your dog to pose on her new bed for a photo.
9. Post to Facebook and tell all your friends you made a dog bed all by yourself.
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 7. Sweet Dreams Sleep Mask.
For some time now, I've taken to sleeping with a sleep mask, and I sleep much better when I do. It's a really pretty picture... me jumping into bed, putting the ritual lotion and sweat socks on, wearing my bite guard and then pulling a mask over my face. It's cute, I'm sure. Aherm. . . Well, at least now I'll be a little cuter, you'll have to agree. Last night the elastic on my old sleep mask busted, so I this became today's project. It makes a great gift too!
Download the pattern here:
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 6. String Block quilted coasters.
I have a party to go to later this week. So, I thought I'd make a hostess gift today. At this point, I have a ton of scraps, so I thought a string block would be perfect. Together, four coasters make one string block and I think they look fantastic on a coffee table layed out like this... Make a whole bunch and you can mix and match.
Here's how you make them...
You will need:
a fat quarter of muslin
a fat quarter of batting or fusible fleece (I used the fleece)
A fat quarter for the back of the coasters
Coordinating Thread (I used four Aurifil colors from the Pat Bravo Quilter's Heart box set: 2132, 2420, 5006 and 2311)
4 each backing, batting/fusible fleece and muslin at 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
Cut strips of varying sizes at least 7" long
1. Lay a strip, right side up on top of a muslin square on the diagonal.
2. Lay a second strip on top of the first piece raw edges matching and right sides together.
3. Sew a 1/4" seam along the raw edge.
4. Flip the top piece over and press in place.
5. Continue piecing in this manner until the entire square is covered.
6. Turn your finished square over on top of your cutting mat so you can see the muslin, and use your rotary cutter and ruler to trim to the size of the square.
7. Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of each of your finished squares.
8. Place the backing and front of the square right sides together and sew around three sides.
9. For the fourth side, baste the seam.
10. Trim the corners.
11. Press all seams open.
12. With a seam ripper, open a small portion of the basted edge. (note: I had you close it and open it so that you would have a nice line to turn the edge under.)
13. Turn the coaster through the opening.
14. Press the open edge in 1/4" toward the wrong side.
15. Edge stitch around the four sides of the coaster closing the open side.
16. Quilt as desired. I simply quilted straight lines 1/4" apart until I got to the center... That way, I didn't have to lift the needle or cut thread. i.e.: It was fast.
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 5. Fabric Collage Embellished Skirt
You probably already know this... I love fabric collage. I think it works on just about anything. I've done wall hangings, pillows, embellished sweaters, quilt edges, jeans and lots more. For this project, I embellished a jean skirt. If you were at quilt market you might have seen me wearing it. I actually did this in the hotel room the night before the show opened.
This is super easy to do. If you don't have experience with free motion quilting, this is also an easy way to get started practicing because it's just so forgiving. If your stitches appear too long or short, just go over them again. You are simply going to doodle. Watch me do it in the video below.
For this project you'll need about 20 or so raw edged fabric motifs. Mine are from LillyBelle in the both colorways. I used Aurifil 4651 which is a variegated thread for the quilting. And you'll need a sewng machine that has free motion quilting capability (feed dogs can go down and a quilting foot). You'll also need a piece of muslin to go underneath your motifs where they will hang off the edge. Quilting gloves are optional, but really help you grip the fabric to move it.
1. Lay the muslin on top of your jean skirt where you will be putting the motifs. It can hang off the bottom edge.
2. Lay out your motifs in a manner that is pleasing to you. Make sure that if it is going of the edge, they are on top of the muslin which you will use as a base.
3. Pin all motifs in place or use a washable glue stick to hold them down. You don't want them flapping about as you are quilting.
4. Free motion quilt/doodle them all into place.
5. Cut off the excess muslin up to the edges of the motifs.
6. Zig zag stitch the raw edges along the bottom with a tight stitch. You could go around the edge three times making each round a shorter stitch to mimic a satin stitch or you could also serge the edges.
7. Wash the skirt to give the pieces a frayed
Here's a short video in which I show you how to free motion quilt for fabric collage. Happy stitching!
14 Days of LillyBelle
Paper pieced Lily Mug Rug.
Apparently my boss (me) is a tyrant. First she told me that we could just do simple easy projects that would take an hour to develop. And then she told me I was just being lazy, and that I had to step it up a bit... "give people something interesting", she said. So yesterday she decided a little paper piecing project was in order. Nevermind, we don't do that very often around here so we had to brush up our paper piecing skills in order to do it... SHE decided it wouldn't be a problem. Hrrmmppff... she didn't have to execute her evil plan. Oh, wait. Yes she did. And SO, she (I) stayed up past midnight because apparently she can't resist throwing out challenges and I apparently take the bait every time... I can't resist a challenge. Yeah, that's right. Just TRY to tell me I can't do something. Sigh.
Now all that said, and despite the challenge I had in developing this pattern... it is really quite easy to actually make! My loss, your gain, you see. Ok, plus also my gain... I love how it turned out and I might officially be addicted to paper piecing. Too fun.
For this project you will need some scraps, batting and backing that is 10 x 13 plus 1/4 yard for binding. I used LillyBelle in both colorways... to show you how nicely the colorways can be mixed and matched, don't ya' know. For piecing and quilting I used Aurifil threads from Pat Bravo's set, Quilting Heart. The blue is 4182, and I used it on the dark pieces. The pink is 2420 and I used it on the lighter pieces plus the bobbing for the quilting.
The mug rug finishes at 8 x 10 1/2" Print it out by using the link below...
14 days of LillyBelle... Day Three. Skill Builder Fat Quarter Tote. (making darts)
lily bouquet fabric and vintage fence from LillyBelle... warm sunset palette.
If you haven't done much clothing sewing then you may not have ever sewn a dart before. Darts are really useful in clothing to add shape... around the hips and the bust are some of the most common places you'll see darts. In this project I added darts to a very simple tote to give it shape around the bottom edges. It gave it a bit more fullness where otherwise the bag would have just been flat. The other nice thing about this bag is that it took all of 1 fat quarter, half yard of interfacing (22" wide) and an eighth of a yard for handles. It finishes at approximately 10 x 10
Here's how you make it:
1. True up the edges of your fat quarter. (i.e.: The top should be the same measurement as the bottom, the sides should be equal and each corner should be 90 degrees.)
2. Fold the fat quarter in quarters... in half the long way and then again the short way. Press it so that you will clearly see the press lines when you unfold it.
3. Unfold and cut into four pieces along the pressed lines... 2 pieces will be the outside of the bag and 2 pieces will be the lining.
4. Cut interfacing to the size of each of the four pieces and press on the wrong side of the fabric.
5. Make darts in each of the bottom corners... for each bottom corner of each of the four pieces of fabric do the following:
• Fold the top corner down so that the side raw edge matches the bottom raw edge, right sides together.
• Mark 1/2" in from the corner and 3" up. See the photo below.
• Stitch from the 3" mark down to the 1/2" mark... do not back stitch at the top (3" mark) because it will cause puckers. Rather, leave a long thread tail and tie a knot to keep the thread from coming loose.
• Press each dart to one side.
6. Make the handles:
• Cut 1 - 4" strip x Width of the Fabric, and cut the strip in two pieces for the two handles.
• Cut 2 pieces of interfacing the same size of the handles and press onto the wrong side of the fabric.
• Fold each handle piece in half lengthwise, right sides together and sew along the raw edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.
• Turn each handle tube using a safety pin or tube turner.
• Press flat with the seam centered down the back of the handle.
• Fold each handle in half lengthwise and mark three inches from each end.
• Along the edge that is open, and starting and finishing at the 3" marks, edge stitch the folded handle together. (Each end will be open.)
7. Sew the bag panels together:
• Place the out side of the bag right sides together and match the darts on each side. Pin in place.
• Using a 1/4" seam allowance start at the top right corner, sew down to the bottom right corner, pivot, sew across the bottom and up the other side, leaving the top of the bag open.
• Repeat the first two steps for the lining pieces except leave a 4" opening on the bottom of the bag to turn through later.
8. Attach the handles (see illustration below):
• On the outside of the bag, mark the top center of each side (you can find it by folding in half with the seams together.
• Mark 2" to each side of center on each side of the bag.
• For each handle on opposite sides of the bag: With the seam side up place a raw edge of a handle end aligned to the outside of the 2" line. Without twisting the handle, place the other edge on the other 2" line. Use a scant 1/4" seam allowance to stitch each end of the handle in place.
9. Turn the outside of the lining so it is wrong side out. Place the outside of the bag into the lining so that the right sides are facing together.
10. At the top opening, pin the side seams together, then pin along the rest of the top.
11. Sew all the way around the top of the bag opening using a 1/4" seam allowance.
12. Turn the bag through the opening in the lining and press well.
13. Top/edge stitch around the entire top edge of the bag.
14. Press the opening in the lining toward the wrong side of the fabric, then edge stitch the opening closed.
14 Days of LillyBelle... Day two. Double sided napkins
I have to laugh at myself. This morning I decided I'd do an easy project. And oh, it WAS easy. Until I decided to video it. And edit it. And add music. And make what could have taken 2 hours take... all. day. long. Anyways, I hope you enjoy. And if you don't, please just say you do anyways. XO, b
Challenging myself... 14 Days of LillyBelle
A note for myself so I can later confirm that I was right about my sanity... Dear Bari, sometimes you do stuff that's crazy just to prove you could do it. I don't know who you are proving this to. It may just be that you have issues. I am certain that all said and done, you will agree with me that this is one of those things. I'm telling you this now so that I can tell you, "I told you so!" later... and because I love you. I know you'd do the same for me. XO, Bari
Aherm... Now that that's out of the way...
For the next 14 days I have challenged myself to make and post a project from LillyBelle each day. Today I made this braided runner. I'll have you know that my sanity may have been in question this morning when I thought it was going to be a full size quilt and that I was going to quilt it myself before the day was over... I came to my senses at about 9am. You can rest assured I will send it to someone else for quilting too.
Makes a runner for a 6' table
In this runner I used the 10 prints from LillyBelle's Cool Sunrise Colorway.... it was nice how they divide up evenly with 5 light and 5 dark fabrics. You can get a pre-cut roll of LillyBelle strips here. It comes with two strips for each of the 20 pieces in LillyBelle... you will need three... so if you are going this route, then get two packs. You will have both colorways to use in other projects.
Otherwise... here's what you'll need...
1/4 yard each of 5 light fabrics
1/4 yard each of 5 dark fabrics
Coordinating Thread (I used Aurifil 5006 from Pat Bravo's new set)
Cut all of the fabric into 2 1/2" x Width of Fabric strips
Subcut 6" pieces in pairs of dark and light, right sides facing (for a braided quilt you need mirrored images). Cut one end of each pair at a 45 degree angle. (see the diagram below)
If you are using the Creative Grids ruler, cutting instructions for using it are included with the ruler. But basically, it is a trapezoid template. You can watch a video here.
Join one and one dark trapezoid together and press. Then add anotehr light trapezod to the light size of this section. Press. Then add a dark trapezoid to the dark side of the section. Your row is finished when you have 35 pairs.
Create 2 addtional rows. Piece the rows together carefully matching the points. Trim the ends making sure your corners are trued up.
Quilt and bind as you wish.
Quilt Shop Club: Joyful Soul Fabrics
When I heard about this club, I just had to pass it on to you... A Joyful Soul Fabrics in San Antonio, TX has a Fat Quarter Club. This month they already shipped LillyBelle to their members and in December they will be shipping my next line, Splendor 1920.
PS... If you are a shop owner and would like me to feature something you are doing with my fabrics or sewing patterns, please let me know, I'd be happy to post about it.
View my line of licensed fabric designs at
Art Gallery Fabrics
Ships to stores May 2013...
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