Bari J.

14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 12. Tube Top.

 
This was probably the easiest and most fun project so far. I'm beyond excited because my teenager said she would actually WEAR something I made. I fashioned this after a tube top she got at Target, and let her pick the fabric. It was interesting to see what she picked (vintage fence in the cool sunrise palette)... and she said she would buy it if she saw it in a store, so I'm feeling like The Bomb Mom! 

Here's how I made this...

 You'll need:

3/4 yard fabric

2 yards of 5/8" elastic

Cutting:

This is for a small tube top...  Em is probably a size 0-3. It's such a baggy/loose piece, that the only real difference will be in length of the elastics and length at the hem.

Measure your wearer, just under the underarms around the top of the chest. Subtract 1 - 2". Cut elastic to that length, then cut in half.

Cut a second piece of elastic 1 to 2" bigger than the first piece. Cut it in half as well.

Measure the wearer from just above the chest, to the mid hip (or longer depending on how long you'd like the top to be), add 4 to 5". Cut a piece of fabric that is the measured length by the width of the fabric. Cut the fabric in half so you have a piece for the front and a piece for the back of the top.

Step by step:

1. Hem: Fold the top edge in 1/4" toward the wrong side, then an additional 1/4". Edge stitch along the inside folded edge.

2. Sew on the top elastic: Using a zig zag stitch, top stitch the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric, just below the top hem. The elastic is shorter than the fabric, so you'll be pulling as you sew to make the elastic stretch from one end of the fabric to the other. The trick here is to start very slowly. Take a couple stitches so the elastic is held in place, then as the fabric comes behind the foot, use one hand to guide the fabric from behind, and the other to stretch the elastic as you sew along. Repeat for the back of the top.

3. Sew the elastic at the bottom: Measure 3 1/2" from the bottom raw edge, and draw a line across on the wrong side of the fabric (I used a heat erasable pen... you can use chalk or another erasable method... even a press line will work). Use your guideline to sew the second piece of elastic on. Repeat for the back of the top.

4. Place the two pieces of fabric, right sides together and use a 1/2" seam allowance to sew each side together. Zig zag stitch or serge to finish the seam. Turn and press.

5. Hem the bottom edge as you did the top.

 

14 Days of LillyBelle.. Day 11. It's Curtains for Lara!

My sister just moved into a new home, and she desperately needed curtains. The sliding glass door she has is over 9 feet long, and the former occupants, had an 8 foot rod on the window and some seriously frightening curtain panels that didn't fit. On top of that, her toddler and 1 year old pulled the whole deal down the other day. Lucky for Lara, I'm in the midst of my self-imposed challenge and needed a good project. So off I went on my curtain making adventure.

Now, some of you know, that I have made a huge amount of curtains in the past. So, frankly, I was a little cocky going into this. This is actually the second set of curtains created yesterday. I had originally planned using white fabric where the yellow is. I had about 8 yards of white corduroy left, and I wanted to use it up. I cut everything very carefully, and set the leftover fabric aside. HOWEVER, when I went to put the corduroy panel on the second curtain, I grabbed the leftover fabric unknowingly. And it was 1/4 of the width. It was the end of the day, and I was exhausted, not to mention hungry... I didn't notice. Until we hung it on the window and which point I dissolved into a angry/weepy mess. Low blood sugar + exhaustion = really unhappy Bari.

I had wanted to photograph and get this post up last night. Instead, I spent the remainder of the night (until 12:30PM) remaking the curtains entirely... I had cut into the properly cut piece for another part of the curtain, and didn't have any left to be able to just fix the error. 

All of that said, in the end, I like the second set better.

Lara didn't want lining because she wanted the sun to shine through a bit, so I decided to bind the curtains instead of hem the sides and bottom:

By doing this, I think it gave the back a bit of a more fininshed look. Plus, it really frames the whole thing nicely.

A basic how to on curtains:

Cutting:

WIDTH:

Lara's window was 112" the entire way across. I made two panels and each is 110" wide finished (nearly the entire width) in order to make them ruffly. i.e. = equation for each panel is 1/2 the window x 2.

Note: I actually used 3 pieces of fabric for each panel width... when you decide on width, take seam allowances between panels into account. 

HEIGHT:

Here's what you need to take into account:

1. Rod pocket. I made a 3" rod pocket plus I finished the top of the rod pocket with a top top stitch that took up 1/4" inch. There for I added 6 1/2" for the rod pocket.

2. Hem. If I was going to do a hem, I'd add 1/2" to the bottom.

3. Height of brackets. Your brackets will be hung above the window. Buy your brackets first and measure them. Then decide where they will hang. Add the amount to the total height of your panels.

equation for panel length:

Window Height

+ (rod width x 2) + 1/2" for top stitching at top of curtain

+ 1/2" for hem (If you are doing one. I didn't because I used binding.)

+ bracket height

If you are going to bind instead of hem here's the equation for amount of binding needed:

1 side of curtain x 2 + width of the bottom/width of fabric = number of 3" strips needed

Step by step:

Binding (note: you'll be binding the sides and the bottom, not the top)

1. Attach the 3" strips together by mitering.

    To miter...

            a. Place strips in a backward "L" shape, right sides together:

            b. Sew a 45 degree angle seam from corner to corner.

            c. Trim off excess fabric in seam... here's what the miter looks like:

2. Press the binding in half lengthwise and press.

3. Open up and fold each edge into the middle and press.

4. Fold in half lengthwise again and press.

5. Open up the binding, align with the top right hand corner of your curtain, right sides together, raw edges matching. Sew along the first fold line.

6. When you get 1/2" from the corner, pivot and sew a 45 degree angle to the corner. Cut thread and take out from under foot. 

7. To miter the corner. urn the fabric to the right...

... then back over itself to the left. Continue sewing along the raw edge.

8. Miter the other corner in the same manner, and sew to the top left of the curtain.

9. Once the binding is on the front, flip it over to the back, fold the raw edge in toward the wrong side of the binding and press in place on the back of the curtain. You can even use a little glue stick to hold it in place.

10. Top stitch the binding on from the front side (see the photo of the fininshed binding near the top of this post.

ROD POCKET:

1. Measure 3 1/4" from the top of the curtain and mark.

2. Fold the fabric down toward the wrong side 1/4" (so there was no raw edge), and then another 3" (where you just marked) for the rod pocket. Pin in place.

3. Edge stitch along the fold on the wrong side of the fabric to close the rod pocket.

4. At the very top of the fold, top stitched 1/4" away from the edge for a finished look on the top.

Voila! You are finished.

14 days of LillyBelle. Day 10... Drawstring Gift Bag

Off to a cocktail party in a few hours... bringing the coasters I made earlier this week along with some wine. Today I made a LillyBelle gift bag to bring it in.

I think I'll make a bunch of these to have on had as the holidays approach. They are super easy for a lot of impact. Plus, of course, you can make them in any size... great for shoe bags, lingerie bags etc etc... just re-size.

Here's how I made this one...

Supplies Needed:

Fat Quarter of fabric

1/4 yard contrast fabric

Safety pin

Serger (optional)

Cutting:

Main fabric: 16 1/4" x 14"

Contrast fabric: 4" x WOF

Step by Step:

1. Serge or zig zag stitch all four raw edges of the main fabric.

2. Fold the two 16 1/4" sides and 1 - 14" side in 1/4" toward the wrong side of the fabric. These will be the side seam and the bottom of the bag. Do not fold in the top edge.

3. Edge stitch along the inside edge of the 1/4" folded fabric to hem.

4. Mark 2 1/4" down from the top of the fabric.

5. Fold the top edge toward the wrong side of the fabric along the 2 1/4" mark.

6. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew along the top folded edge.

7. Edge stitch along the serged/zig zagged edge. You've just created the casing for your drawstring.

8. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise so the side seams meet, right sides together.

9. Sew the side seam and bottom edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.

10. Turn and press.

Make the drawstring:

1. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together and press.

2. Fold each short raw end in toward the long folded edge at a 45 degree angle creating a pointed end. 

3. Sew the raw edge and angle closed leaving a 4" -5" opening to turn. Turn and press.

4. Edge stitch the seam edge, closing the opening to finish.

5. Place a safety pin on one end of the drawstring and draw through the casing.

4. Turn the 

14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 9. Zakka Embroidery Organizer Wall Pockets

Today's project is a nifty little wall organizer for your embroidery supplies...

Here's how you make it...

Download pocket pattern pieces:  Download Zakkapockets

Supplies needed:

2 - 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" pieces of fabric

Scraps in varying contrasting fabrics sized larger than 8".

1 - 1/2 yard fusible fleece

1/4 yard for binding

 

Cutting:

For front and back cut 1 each 12 1/2" x 12 1/2"

Cut pockets as indicated on pattern sheet

1 - 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" fusible fleece

 

Step by step:

Edit: In hindsight... had this not been a project a day challenge, I may have thought to quilt the piece first, THEN put the pockets on... I would highly recommend that. So, instead of making and attaching the pockets, first fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the front panel, baste the backing on, and quilt as you wish. I think I'm going to take the pockets off of this one, do straight line quilting, then put the pockets back on. You can sew the pockets on through the 3 layers. Bind when it's all finished.

Pocket 1 (ruler/pen):

1. Fold your piece of fabric in half with the right sides together (the fold is 3 1/2" across).

2. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew the long sides together and leave the bottom open.

3. Trim the corners, turn and press.

4. Edge stitch along the top 3 1/2" fold.

5. Place the pocket with the raw edge toward the top onto the fabric panel. The left hand corner should be 2 1/4" from the left side of the fabric and 5 3/4" from the bottom of the fabric panel. See below for placement.

6. Stitch onto the panel using a scant 1/4" seam allowance.

7. Flip the pocket up, press and sew a 1/4" seam allowance at the bottom of the pocket, enclosing the raw edge. Then top/edge stitch the sides in place. 

 

Pockets 2a/b: 

1. Follow steps 1 through 4 above, except use the 5 1/2" width as the fold.

2. Place the smaller pocket in front of the larger pocket with the raw edges aligned.

3. Place the pockets with the raw edge toward the top onto the fabric panel. The smaller pocket should be facing the right side of the fabric panel (i.e. down). The right hand corner should be 1 1/4" from the right side of the fabric and 6 1/4" from the bottom of the fabric panel. See below for placement.

Pocket 3 (rounded hoop pocket):

1. Fold the pocket in half along the fold you cut on with the right sides together.

2. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew the two sides together. Leave a 2" to 3" opening in the bottom to turn (I usually baste through my openings and then open them up to turn... this way I have a stitch line to make it easier to turn the fabric in later).

3. Turn and press.

4. Edge stitch along the fold.

5. Center the pocket below pocket 1, about 1 1/4" from the bottom of the fabric, and edge stitch in place.

Pocket 4 (scissors):

1. Place the two pieces right side together and sew together using a 1/4" seam allowance and leaving an opening in the top.

2. Turn and press.

3. Center the pocket below pocket 2, about 1 1/4" from the bottom and edge stitch in place.

Tabs:

For top tabs, I created extra binding.

1. Cut off 2 - 4" pieces, folded the edges in 1/4" then fold in half. Edge stitch along the open edge.

2. Mark 2" from each side of the top center for tab placement. Align the raw edges of the tabs on the back side of your organizer, and as you sew your binding onto the front of your piece, sew the tabs in with it.

3. When you flip the binding over the top to the back and hand stitch, flip the tabs up and stitch them in place as well.

 

 

14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 8. Doggie Bed.

This is Izzy. On her new bed. We had to bribe her with lots of cookies to sit still. Also, I photoshopped out her drool off the dog bed...

Several weeks ago I went to great lengths getting foam for dog beds at the local big box sewing store. Let's suffice to say, thanks to a coupon ta do, I made two stops back there for the same item only to have a coupon argument at the cutting table when I finally did get the foam. Sheesh.

But I digress... for weeks now, I've had two ugly pieces of foam sitting around, and I hadn't gotten around to sewing covers for them. Lucky me. I commited to sewing with LillyBelle every day for 14 days... so now I had an excuse. I HAD to make the dog beds. And at least I did get one done today. I did this one with the zipper in the side... It's hidden under fabric flaps, and this is my favorite way of doing zipper on pillows of any sort.

How to make your own doggie bed...

Supplies:

1 yard of 5" x 24 1/2" foam

1 1/2 yards of main fabric

3/4 yard of contrast fabric

24" upholstery zipper

2 yards fusible fleece (optional)

 

Cutting:

Main fabric, fusible fleece  – 2 each- 37" x 25 1/2" pieces

Contrast fabric, fusible fleece – 2 each - 3 1/2" x 37" pieces, 1 each - 6" x 37" piece, 2 each - 6" x 25 1/2" pieces

 

Step by Step:

Install zipper in the side:

1. Place the two 3 1/2" x 37" pieces right sides together. 

2. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, BASTE the two pieces together along a long raw edge.

3. Press the seam open and place your zipper on top of the wrong side of the seam, right side of zipper down, centered on top of the seam.

4. Pin the zipper in place alternating the direction from which you put the pin in (see above).

5. From the right side of the basted panel, and with your zipper foot on, top stitch along the side of the seam about 1/4" away from the zipper. The trick here is to feel with your fingers as you sew down next to the seam, and reach under the fabric pulling pins out of the way as you go.

Zipper tip: you'll want to pull the zipper pull open as you start so it's away from the presser foot, then when you get to it, put the presser foot in the up position and wiggle the pull up again past it.

6. Sew back up the other side of the seam, again keeping 1/4" away from the zipper.

7. Use a seam ripper to open the basted seam exposing your zipper.

Note: if you have cut your zipper to length, you'll want to do a tight zig zag stitch in place to work as a tab at the bottom of the zipper so that you can't open the zipper past it (see below).

Sew the contrast fabric sides to the main fabric panels:

Note: For all of the seams, start and stop at the 1/2" point. You might want to mark 1/2" from the ends on all of the pieces.

1. Place the zipper panel on top of one of the large panels (main fabric) along a long side, right sides together. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, and starting/stopping 1/2" inch from each end, sew the two pieces together.

2. Sew the other three contrast pieces of fabric on in the same manner.

4. Repeat for the other side of the dog bed.

5. Starting and stopping at the 1/2" points, and using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew the four corners together... NOTE: Before you sew the last corner, open the zipper so you can  turn through it.

6. Serge or zig zag stitch all seams, turn and press.

7. Slip on the piece of foam (read: wrangle onto the piece of foam)

8. Force your dog to pose on her new bed for a photo.

9. Post to Facebook and tell all your friends you made a dog bed all by yourself.

 

14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 7. Sweet Dreams Sleep Mask.

For some time now, I've taken to sleeping with a sleep mask, and I sleep much better when I do. It's a really pretty picture... me jumping into bed, putting the ritual lotion and sweat socks on, wearing my bite guard and then pulling a mask over my face. It's cute, I'm sure. Aherm. . . Well, at least now I'll be a little cuter, you'll have to agree. Last night the elastic on my old sleep mask busted, so I this became today's project. It makes a great gift too! 

Download the pattern here:

Download Sleepmask

 

14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 6. String Block quilted coasters.

I have a party to go to later this week. So, I thought I'd make a hostess gift today. At this point, I have a ton of scraps, so I thought a string block would be perfect. Together, four coasters make one string block and I think they look fantastic on a coffee table layed out like this... Make a whole bunch and you can mix and match. 

Here's how you make them...

You will need:

a fat quarter of muslin

a fat quarter of batting or fusible fleece (I used the fleece)

Scraps

A fat quarter for the back of the coasters

Coordinating Thread (I used four Aurifil colors from the Pat Bravo Quilter's Heart box set: 2132, 2420, 5006 and 2311)

 

Cut:

4 each backing, batting/fusible fleece and muslin at 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"

Cut strips of varying sizes at least 7" long

 

Assemble:

1. Lay a strip, right side up on top of a muslin square on the diagonal.

2. Lay a second strip on top of the first piece raw edges matching and right sides together.

3. Sew a 1/4" seam along the raw edge.

4. Flip the top piece over and press in place.

5. Continue piecing in this manner until the entire square is covered.

6. Turn your finished square over on top of your cutting mat so you can see the muslin, and use your rotary cutter and ruler to trim to the size of the square.

7. Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of each of your finished squares.

8. Place the backing and front of the square right sides together and sew around three sides.

9. For the fourth side, baste the seam. 

10. Trim the corners.

11. Press all seams open.

12. With a seam ripper, open a small portion of the basted edge. (note: I had you close it and open it so that you would have a nice line to turn the edge under.) 

13. Turn the coaster through the opening.

14. Press the open edge in 1/4" toward the wrong side.

15. Edge stitch around the four sides of the coaster closing the open side.

16. Quilt as desired. I simply quilted straight lines 1/4" apart until I got to the center... That way, I didn't have to lift the needle or cut thread. i.e.: It was fast.

Happy sewing!

14 Days of LillyBelle... Day 5. Fabric Collage Embellished Skirt   

You probably already know this... I love fabric collage. I think it works on just about anything. I've done wall hangings, pillows, embellished sweaters, quilt edges, jeans and lots more. For this project, I embellished a jean skirt. If you were at quilt market you might have seen me wearing it. I actually did this in the hotel room the night before the show opened.

This is super easy to do. If you don't have experience with free motion quilting, this is also an easy way to get started practicing because it's just so forgiving. If your stitches appear too long or short, just go over them again. You are simply going to doodle. Watch me do it in the video below.

For this project you'll need about 20 or so raw edged fabric motifs. Mine are from LillyBelle in the both colorways. I used Aurifil 4651 which is a variegated thread for the quilting. And you'll need a sewng machine that has free motion quilting capability (feed dogs can go down and a quilting foot). You'll also need a piece of muslin to go underneath your motifs where they will hang off the edge. Quilting gloves are optional, but really help you grip the fabric to move it.

1. Lay the muslin on top of your jean skirt where you will be putting the motifs. It can hang off the bottom edge.

2. Lay out your motifs in a manner that is pleasing to you. Make sure that if it is going of the edge, they are on top of the muslin which you will use as a base.

3. Pin all motifs in place or use a washable glue stick to hold them down. You don't want them flapping about as you are quilting.

4. Free motion quilt/doodle them all into place.

5. Cut off the excess muslin up to the edges of the motifs.

6. Zig zag stitch the raw edges along the bottom with a tight stitch. You could go around the edge three times making each round a shorter stitch to mimic a satin stitch or you could also serge the edges.

7. Wash the skirt to give the pieces a frayed
look.

Here's a short video in which I show you how to free motion quilt for fabric collage. Happy stitching!

 

 

 14 Days of LillyBelle

Day 4.

Paper pieced Lily Mug Rug.

Apparently my boss (me) is a tyrant. First she told me that we could just do simple easy projects that would take an hour to develop. And then she told me I was just being lazy, and that I had to step it up a bit... "give people something interesting", she said. So yesterday she decided a little paper piecing project was in order. Nevermind, we don't do that very often around here so we had to brush up our paper piecing skills in order to do it... SHE decided it wouldn't be a problem. Hrrmmppff... she didn't have to execute her evil plan. Oh, wait. Yes she did. And SO, she (I) stayed up past midnight because apparently she can't resist throwing out challenges and I apparently take the bait every time... I can't resist a challenge. Yeah, that's right. Just TRY to tell me I can't do something. Sigh.

Now all that said, and despite the challenge I had in developing this pattern... it is really quite easy to actually make! My loss, your gain, you see. Ok, plus also my gain... I love how it turned out and I might officially be addicted to paper piecing. Too fun.

For this project you will need some scraps, batting and backing that is 10 x 13 plus 1/4 yard for binding. I used LillyBelle in both colorways...  to show you how nicely the colorways can be mixed and matched, don't ya' know. For piecing and quilting I used Aurifil threads from Pat Bravo's set, Quilting Heart. The blue is 4182, and I used it on the dark pieces. The pink is 2420 and I used it on the lighter pieces plus the bobbing for the quilting.

The mug rug finishes at 8 x 10 1/2" Print it out by using the link below...

Download Paperpiecedlily

 

14 days of LillyBelle... Day Three. Skill Builder Fat Quarter Tote. (making darts)

lily bouquet fabric and vintage fence from LillyBelle... warm sunset palette.

If you haven't done much clothing sewing then you may not have ever sewn a dart before. Darts are really useful in clothing to add shape... around the hips and the bust are some of the most common places you'll see darts. In this project I added darts to a very simple tote to give it shape around the bottom edges. It gave it a bit more fullness where otherwise the bag would have just been flat. The other nice thing about this bag is that it took all of 1 fat quarter, half yard of interfacing (22" wide) and an eighth of a  yard for handles. It finishes at approximately 10 x 10

Here's how you make it:

1. True up the edges of your fat quarter. (i.e.: The top should be the same measurement as the bottom, the sides should be equal and each corner should be 90 degrees.)

2. Fold the fat quarter in quarters... in half the long way and then again the short way. Press it so that you will clearly see the press lines when you unfold it.

3. Unfold and cut into four pieces along the pressed lines... 2 pieces will be the outside of the bag and 2 pieces will be the lining.

4. Cut interfacing to the size of each of the four pieces and press on the wrong side of the fabric.

5. Make darts in each of the bottom corners... for each bottom corner of each of the four pieces of fabric do the following:

    • Fold the top corner down so that the side raw edge matches the bottom raw edge, right sides together.

    • Mark 1/2" in from the corner and 3" up. See the photo below.

    • Stitch from the 3" mark down to the 1/2" mark... do not back stitch at the top (3" mark) because it will cause puckers. Rather, leave a long thread tail and tie a knot to keep the thread from coming loose.

    • Press each dart to one side. 

6. Make the handles:

    • Cut 1 - 4" strip x  Width of the Fabric, and cut the strip in two pieces for the two handles.

    • Cut 2 pieces of interfacing the same size of the handles and press onto the wrong side of the fabric.

    • Fold each handle piece in half lengthwise, right sides together and sew along the raw edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.

    • Turn each handle tube using a safety pin or tube turner.

    • Press flat with the seam centered down the back of the handle.

    • Fold each handle in half lengthwise and mark three inches from each end.

    • Along the edge that is open, and starting and finishing at the 3" marks, edge stitch the folded handle together. (Each end will be open.)

7. Sew the bag panels together:

    • Place the out side of the bag right sides together and match the darts on each side. Pin in place.

    • Using a 1/4" seam allowance start at the top right corner, sew down to the bottom right corner, pivot, sew across the bottom and up the other side, leaving the top of the bag open.

    • Repeat the first two steps for the lining pieces except leave a 4" opening on the bottom of the bag to turn through later.

8. Attach the handles (see illustration below):

    • On the outside of the bag, mark the top center of each side (you can find it by folding in half with the seams together. 

    • Mark 2" to each side of center on each side of the bag.

    • For each handle on opposite sides of the bag: With the seam side up place a raw edge of a handle end aligned to the outside of the 2" line. Without twisting the handle, place the other edge on the other 2" line. Use a scant 1/4" seam allowance to stitch each end of the handle in place.

 

9. Turn the outside of the lining so it is wrong side out. Place the outside of the bag into the lining so that the right sides are facing together.

10. At the top opening, pin the side seams together, then pin along the rest of the top.

11. Sew all the way around the top of the bag opening using a 1/4" seam allowance.

12. Turn the bag through the opening in the lining and press well.

13. Top/edge stitch around the entire top edge of the bag.

14. Press the opening in the lining toward the wrong side of the fabric, then edge stitch the opening closed. 

 

14 Days of LillyBelle... Day two. Double sided napkins

Edit: 

A new photo showing the mitered corners a bit clearer...

I have to laugh at myself. This morning I decided I'd do an easy project. And oh, it WAS easy. Until I decided to video it. And edit it. And add music. And make what could have taken 2 hours take... all. day. long. Anyways, I hope you enjoy. And if you don't, please just say you do anyways. XO, b

 

Challenging myself... 14 Days of LillyBelle

day one.

A note for myself so I can later confirm that I was right about my sanity... Dear Bari, sometimes you do stuff that's crazy just to prove you could do it. I don't know who you are proving this to. It may just be that you have issues. I am certain that all said and done, you will agree with me that this is one of those things. I'm telling you this now so that I can tell you, "I told you so!" later... and because I love you. I know you'd do the same for me. XO, Bari

Aherm... Now that that's out of the way...

For the next 14 days I have challenged myself to make and post a project from LillyBelle each day. Today I made this braided runner. I'll have you know that my sanity may have been in question this morning when I thought it was going to be a full size quilt and that I was going to quilt it myself before the day was over... I came to my senses at about 9am. You can rest assured I will send it to someone else for quilting too.

Makes a runner for a 6' table

Materials Needed:

In this runner I used the 10 prints from LillyBelle's Cool Sunrise Colorway.... it was nice how they divide up evenly with 5 light and 5 dark fabrics. You can get a pre-cut roll of LillyBelle strips here. It comes with two strips for each of the 20 pieces in LillyBelle... you will need three... so if you are going this route, then get two packs. You will have both colorways to use in other projects.

Otherwise... here's what you'll need...

1/4 yard each of 5 light fabrics

1/4 yard each of 5 dark fabrics

Rotary Cutter

Quilting ruler 

OR

Optional: Creative Grids 45 degree Trapezoid Strip ruler

Coordinating Thread (I used Aurifil 5006 from Pat Bravo's new set)

 

Cutting:

Cut all of the fabric into 2 1/2" x Width of Fabric strips

Subcut 6" pieces in pairs of dark and light, right sides facing (for a braided quilt you need mirrored images). Cut one end of each pair at a 45 degree angle. (see the diagram below)

If you are using the Creative Grids ruler, cutting instructions for using it are included with the ruler. But basically, it is a trapezoid template. You can watch a video here.

Piecing:

Join one and one dark trapezoid together and press. Then add anotehr light trapezod to the light size of this section. Press. Then add a dark trapezoid to the dark side of the section. Your row is finished when you have 35 pairs.

Create 2 addtional rows. Piece the rows together carefully matching the points. Trim the ends making sure your corners are trued up.

Quilt and bind as you wish.

 

Aurifil Designer of the Month: Sarah Fielke

I am late late late... I hope you've already had a chance to pop over to the Aurifil Buzz Blog to see Sarah's beautiful design!

Quilt Shop Club: Joyful Soul Fabrics

When I heard about this club, I just had to pass it on to you... A Joyful Soul Fabrics in San Antonio, TX has a Fat Quarter Club. This month they already shipped LillyBelle to their members and in December they will be shipping my next line, Splendor 1920.

They also carry my Starlight Quilt as a kit and have cut LillyBelle into strip rolls for your convenience. 

PS... If you are a shop owner and would like me to feature something you are doing with my fabrics or sewing patterns, please let me know, I'd be happy to post about it.

 

 The winner is:

Debbi Fair

Hi there from this stop on the GenQ magazine Tour!

(and... psst... giveaway)

The first thing I noticed about this magazine was it's unique size. It measures 7" x 9". I instantly loved the intimate feel that the size gave it.

Second, of course, I recognized the two most recognizable people in the modern quilting industry on the cover: Amy and David Butler. The sweet photo on the front really drew me in, and inside the article did not fail to surprise me. I've read plenty about Amy and David before, but this article really gives you a feel for how they live and work as artists. Again, that feeling of intimacy with the reader makes this magazine stand out from the pack.

I of course read the cover article first, but then when I started flipping through the magazine more, I realized that this is really a different quilting magazine. It's modern and fresh, yes, but it's also personal. 

The projects inside are from people we know and love. I was especially happy to see the bag by Pat Bravo who you all know I adore. And Heather Jone's quilt defines the modern quilting movement in my opinion. And the quilting on it... phenomenally executed by none other than Angela Walters. When you get to know Angela, you can instantly recognize one of her quilts. 

This magazine left me wanting to see what's next for the editors of this magazine who I'm happy to call friends. It's fresh and it's fun and I believe it's going to draw the next generation of people into quilting. I can't wait to see what you all do, the projects you find and the promise you offer our wonderfully supportive and giving industry.

So, you want a copy? Leave a comment here no later than thursday the fifth and I'll pick a winner on Friday.

You can also enter to win a copy over on Generation Q’s Facebook page by liking them there.

COMMENTS ARE NOW CLOSED. Thank you for participating!